Crafted with pride

Think of Japan and alcohol and you are likely to think of sake. And, while we call sake a rice wine, its fermentation process is actually closer to beer than wine. Why don’t we ever hear of Japanese wine?

Climate may be one of the reasons. Even though the main island shares a common latitude with the Mediterranean, its proximity to the Asian continent produces a radically different climate. Freezing winters, wet springs, wetter summers—and the yearly possibility of typhoons—present severe challenges for grape growers.

But marginal resources do not hamper the intrepid Japanese. Buddhist monks introduced grapes to Japan in the eigth century as a source of food. In the mid 18th century, when Japan opened its ports to western commerce, a wine industry began to coalesce. The government of the day sent delegations to Europe and North America to study oenology and bring back vines. Initially, only the hardy American Delaware and Niagara varietals were planted. As time progressed, however, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon were planted as well.

Wine production in Japan is still problematic: vineyards are not large, some less than five acres. Japan must therefore import large quantities of bulk wine and grape concentrate to blend with their domestic production. The Japanese palate is extremely sophisticated, so strict rules require the winery to display the percentage of the blend on the label. Although they import large quantities of fine wine and spirits, local production is crafted with the expectation of excellence and pride that typifies the Japanese work ethic.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
It’s supposed to be sunny this weekend. With so many new wine releases in Prince Edward County, you should be able to find a perfect match for upcoming celebrations like Easter and Passover. All wineries will likely roll out the red carpet to welcome visitors, and will happily suggest perfect pairings for your holiday meal. My favourites with glazed ham are Sparkling Rosé, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Gamay. With braised brisket, a Cabernet Franc would be wonderful. All these wines are very nicely done in the County.

Gather some friends and taste new releases. (If you are lucky, you might also be able to try some of the older vintages.) Have a safe and happy Easter and Passover.