A grape resurrected

Although they form the most visible part of a vineyard, the canopy of grape leaves is often overlooked. But, without the carbohydrates formed through photosynthesis, the vine—and its grape clusters—would never grow. Canopy management is critical in a vineyard: the leaf-to-fruit ratio will determine whether the fruit reaches its maximum potential. Vineyard managers will also cull the canopy throughout the season to protect the grapes from heat stress. The condition of the leaf canopy is a bellwether of success or failure of the fruit harvest.

Each grape varietal has a leaf that is unique in size and shape. This is how the carmenere grape was identified in Chile in 1994, although it had been improperly identified previously as a merlot. Prior to the phylloxera epidemic, Chile imported merlot cuttings from Bordeaux. Among these cuttings were some carmenere clones that were believed to be merlot. (Carmenere was used as an additional varietal in Bordeaux blends, much like petit verdot.) Not surprisingly, Chilean “merlot” was found to be different to the old world wine. This was initially attributed to the new climate and terroir. French wine experts began to think there was a fox in the henhouse, as imports of Chilean “merlot” increased. By carefully examining the grape leaf, an expert from the University of Montpellier’s School of Oenology determined that the “merlot clone” was, in fact, carmenere.

Abandoned by the Bordelais in the 19th century—thought to be extinct—the carmenere grape was found again!

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week I tasted Hinterland Wine Company’s 2012 Ancestral ($25), made by Jonas Newman. The “ancestral” method of creating effervescent wine most likely predates the “traditional” methods of Champagne. This method is difficult to control: deft handling by the winemaker is required to capture the carbon dioxide produced in the primary fermentation.

Made from 100 per cent gamay grapes, Hinterland’s Ancestral has a bright, playful pink color. Fresh strawberry preserves and an earthy red currant tingle the palate on the finish. This is a wonderfully fun, celebratory wine that is great for parties. The low, eight per cent alcohol content makes it adaptable from breakfast to late night.

Now is the time to set some Hinterland Ancestral aside for the upcoming holidays. It has a strong following and is in limited supply. Ancestral is available at the winery (open Satruday and Sunday, or by appointment during the week) located at 1258 Closson Road, in Hillier.