A rich heritage

From the very beginning, winemakers have always endeavoured to improve the quality of their wine. We have examined many examples of these efforts in previous articles. Today, however, we examine the work and impact of one of greatest scientists of France.

As a prominent member of Napoleon’s government, Jean-Antoine Chaptal became responsible for modernizing the French wine industry. His book, Traité sur La Vigne, gave directions on all aspects of winemaking. Over-production, shoddy standards, cheating, and just plain incompetence were some of the many problems that plagued the French wine industry of that time. As a scientist and chemist, his book set standards to ensure quality and put an end to the anarchy that prevailed in post-Revolution France. He reset the benchmarks for vineyard management. He enforced the principle of quality over quantity, thereby putting an end to the indiscriminate planting of vines that produced huge amounts of inferior juice. In a truly sad fashion, his name is today linked to the word “chaptalization”, which refers to the adding of sugar to the grape juice in order to increase the alcoholic content of the end product. The standards he created, however, speaks to the passion of this man, and his legacy to the wine industry. Chaptal saved the rich heritage that defines today’s French wine community.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
It’s a rather busy time in the wineries, as the winemaker (aided by the “cellar rats”) process the fruit. It is also the time of year when wineries release their latest vintages.

I must pay tribute to Huff Estates and their well-deserved recognition at the National Wine Awards of Canada that took place in Vancouver. They received a gold medal for their 2014 Pinot Noir and a silver medal for their 2014 South Bay Chardonnay. In fact, they were awarded four medals, as were the entries from Rosehall Run. The results speak volumes as to the quality of our local wines and the dedication of the owners and winemakers.

The 2014 Huff Pinot Noir Reserve is enchanting— from the visual tease in the glass, to the cornucopia of layered flavours that dance on the palate. Congratulations to Frederick Picard and his team for crafting this treat.

At $35 a bottle, this wine is available at their winery, located on County Rd. 1, just west of Highway 62.