California dreamin’

The history of the grape vine in California supersedes the arrival of the European settlers. The indigenous people were hunter-gatherers and as such would harvest the native grapes when in season. When the Spanish settled in the Americas, they ventured north along the Pacific coast establishing settlements and missions. The missions planted orchards, grain crops and vineyards. Throughout the Americas, the friars planted a Spanish variety of vitis vinifera known as Criolla, now referred to in North America as Mission grapes.Today, this heritage grape is still grown in Chile by the name of Negra Peruana, and there are still approximately one thousand acres of Mission vines planted in California.

In 1821, Mexico gained independence from Spain and assumed control of California.After the Mexican-American war of 1846 the territories of Arizona, New Mexico and California were acquired by the United States, as part of the treaty, for a sum of $15 million.Two years later gold was discovered in the Sierras and the cry “Go West Young Man” echoed around the world. The prospectors flooded into California and close behind were entrepreneurs who would build businesses to provide for their every need. Among those were early pioneers who brought the initial plantings of the vine we know as Zinfandel.

Until recently, the myth of Zinfandel’s origin has been a conundrum. In 1993, professor Carole Meredith of UCD established a positive link between Primitivo and Zinfandel as clones of the same varietal, both originating from a Croatian vine, which was virtually wiped out by the phylloxera epidemic that devastated the European vines in the 19th century.These vines were adopted by the Austro- Hungarian Empire and introduced to Puglia and California in the 18th century.

Originally, Zinfandel was not used as a grape for making wine, rather as a grape that dried perfectly to a nutritious California raisin, ideal to sustain the gold miners throughout the winter months. In the 1880s, Zinfandel was planted north of Napa Valley, around Oak Knoll and Geyserville, where some of the finer examples of Zinfandel wine emanate from.

Next week: a dozen eggs and a “Black Chicken.”

By Chadsey’s Cairns has released their 2010 Gamay Noir ($23.20), just in time for summer entertaining. This pretty, garnet coloured wine has aromas of spiced red fruits with a hint of new saddle. The palate is similar with red berries and spiced cherry, with a hint of vanilla and that familiar, well-structured backbone of County acidity.Winemaker Vita Zalnieriunas was delighted with the 2010 harvest and this is one of her gems. Great with roasted meats, fowl and charcuterie.