Made in China

We are near completing the circle of the history of wine but not before exploring the wine industry in China. China discovered and enjoyed the cultivation of grapes and wine over 4,500 years ago; however, wine made from grapes lost favor to be replaced by alcoholic beverages made from rice or fruit such as plum and lychee. Wine did not regain prominence until the rise of the Han Empire in 200 B.C. and was reserved for the enjoyment of the ruling class. This continued up to the late 1800s when the modern era of winemaking emerged. A Chinese diplomat imported vines from both Europe and the United States and created Changyu Pioneer wine, which today is possibly the tenth largest winery in the world.

For the next 100 years China endured the plunder and chaos inherent with weak government, warlords, civil war, invasion and isolation. This changed in the 1980s when the French house of Remy Martin embarked on a joint venture with the Chinese government, successfully producing over 200 brands mostly for export, as a middle class did not yet exist. By the year 2000, the middle class status began to change as the economic boom created more disposable incomes, allowing more and more people to purchase and enjoy wine and spirits. Despite the importation of fine wines and spirits China currently produces upwards of 90 per cent of its market requirements.

China has upwards of seven major wines regions with the largest containing over 140 vineyards. Presently, Chinese wine is rarely found in North America; however, it is sometimes available in California and British Columbia. The Chinese wine industry is improving rapidly in both quality and quantity using French techniques and partnerships, and is poised to give the old world a run for its money in the upcoming decades.

I have one word to describe my wine pick this week… WOW! The Old Third 2009 Pinot Noir is a cracker of a wine.

This is a pretty (but serious) Pinot with aromas of cherry, fresh leather, cocoa husks and tobacco. A big mouthful of cherry and red currant welcomes you with a hint of tarragon and cinnamon bark that straddles the light tannins and mineral, lingering on and on.

Bruno Francois, and his partner Jens Korberg, have literally crafted this wine by hand and the pure dedication to quality shines through. The price of this gem is $35 and is worth every penny. Very limited quantity produced means grab some now before it is too late. Drink now or lay it down for a few years.