Old vines tale

In April 2012, renowned wine columnist Beppi Crosariol wrote an insightful article on old grape vines. These items are like catnip to me: I can’t help but nose around in the origins of vines and their ability to provide wine and food.

Almost 2,000 years ago, grapevines began to be planted on the leeward side of olive groves to protect the vines from wind. (This symbiotic planting practice continues in Tuscany and the New World.) Olive trees were already firmly rooted as an important part of Mediterranean food supply—perhaps even more so than they are today.

Olive trees have a much greater potential lifespan than grapes. I am in awe when I consider the events to which these trees have borne witness. There are some on the island of Crete that might be 3,000 years old. The Romans planted olive trees in Spain in the third century—some of which still produce olives nearly 1,700 years later.

Grape vines, on the other hand, only have the potential to grow for up to 120 years, depending on the varietal and geographical location. Dating back to the 17th century, the oldest grape-producing vine today is the zametovka vine, grown uniquely in Slovenia. Italian immigrants who settled in the Napa Valley and Amador County planted some of the world’s oldest zinfandel vines who, in some cases, are upwards of 125 years old. Despite its challenging climate and terroir, Australia supports some of the oldest shiraz vines dating back to the mid-1800s. (There is also a planting of cabernet sauvignon in the Barossa valley that dates from 1888. It is, in fact, the oldest protected planting of this varietal, and its removal is protected by charter.)

In the real world of varietals, however, productivity can be king. A future article will speak to the average age and potential of mainstream grapevines.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, I think it’s only proper to review a wine with a sunny disposition. So I tasted the Casa Dea 2016 Cabernet Franc Rosé. This varietal is finding a well-deserved place in the pantheon of those that are suited to a cool climate such as Ontario and, in particular, Prince Edward County.

Casa Dea’s rosé shows cotton candy and forest strawberry on the nose; the palate refreshes with red fruit and blueberry. The finish has a slightly spicy note with modest acidity. It is available at the winery located on Greer Rd. and retails for $17.95.