Three from chianti

The Chianti region is today subdivided into several overlapping zones, each reflecting a unique style of wine. The Chianti Classico sub-region runs north from Siena almost to the city of Florence. The Colli Senesi wraps around the southern base of the Classico region. The sub-region closer to Florence is called Colli Fiorentini. And to the northeast of the city, we find the Chianti Ruffina sub-region.

DOC rules established in 1963 allowed of up to a 30 per cent blend of white grapes, which counter-productively diminished the brand and quality of the region’s wine. This loss of reputation encouraged wineries to radically improve their wine—adjusting blend ratios and giving rise to innovative blends that became known as Super Tuscans. In 1975, the renowned Antinori Family launched their first blended wine, known as Tignanello made from sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. Due to the rapid success of this wine, they shortly thereafter produced a wine named Solaia, made with a greater proportion of cabernet to sangiovese. The demand for these two wines prompted most of the wine producers in the region to produce and offer their own version of a Super Tuscan. These wines were initially sold as Vino da Tavola, because the blends were not 100 per cent Italian varietals. Today, these wines are sold under the banner of an I.G.T. designation, and one can spend a fortune (or a modest amount) to enjoy wines that blend Italian and non-Italian varietals.

There are three other wines from Chianti that have achieved unmatched status. Until 1970, Brunello from Montalcino (located on the western edge of the Chianti region) received little or no recognition. Today this wine made from sangiovese clones has made the region famous. It is aged for a minimum of four years in oak and, even after bottling, it should not be consumed for a further five or six years. The second renowned wine comes from the region of Montepulciano, to the southeast of Siena. Correctly named Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, it is made from clusters of sangiovese grapes, producing wine that should be cellared for a minimum of 10 years before it is consumed. The last is a Vin Santo, made from white grapes air-dried for two to three months prior to fermentation. Aged for two to three years in small barrels, this wine is a special treat on par with an ice wine.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, I wanted to taste a wine that a family would enjoy with the upcoming Thanksgiving celebration. I was introduced to a new release from Hillier Estates—a sparkling wine made in the charmat method from chardonnay grapes.

This sparkling hits all the right notes with nuances of lemon curd, hazelnuts, golden delicious apple, and Fra Angelico on the palate. Tiny bubbles to tickle your nose make this a winner, and a welcome addition to the pantheon of sparkling wines from the County.

Available at the winery located on Loyalist Highway just west of Hillier. Pleasantly priced at $25 per bottle.