Benchmark wine

Some time back, I noted that French wine consumption has dropped substantially over the last few decades. In part, this is due to a change of dining habits, health consciousness, and to a lesser degree, income. During this time, French wine production has dropped, although not considerably. Any surplus wine finds its way to willing markets within Europe and North America.

The French wine industry is undergoing what might be construed as a cataclysmic change, brought on by the new French Inheritance Tax laws. Family-owned wineries are substantially impacted, making it financially unsustainable and discouraging interest from newer generations. This is such a shame, as the small, artisanal producers tend to raise the bar for excellence.

While the interest in artisanal wine production is on the rise, this does not discount the value of wines produced by large conglomerates. France’s top houses and firstgrowths have a loyal following, despite the yearly price increases, confirming that premium wines are a commodity acquisition. The fact that the wine consumption in China increases at the staggering pace of 15 per cent, or thereabouts, per annum, matched with the purchasing power of the new, very wealthy Chinese middle-class, has had a direct inflationary effect on the global prices of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne—in fact, iconic wines from most wine regions.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
You can appreciate the work and style of winemaker, Dan Sullivan, in his 2011 JCR Chardonnay from Rosehall Run Vineyards. The fruit was hand selected from specific rows, harvested from 10-year-old vines. The result is a benchmark white, expressing the true potential of this wine region.

Aromas of butterscotch, pear and Tahitian vanilla lead to a palate of Mayer lemon curd, ripe apricots and guava; lots of lingering minerality on the finish encourages another sip.

The evolution of the quality of Prince Edward County wines as the vines is amazing mature, and this vintage truly showcases the skill and dexterity of the winemaker. The JCR Chardonnay ($29.95), is available at the Rosehall Run Vineyards tasting room located 1243 Greer Road, in Hillier.