Spring sipper

Water is essential for the healthy growth of a vine’s foliage, root system and—perhaps most importantly—berry cluster development. The ideal amount of rainfall to sustain a vine varies between 25 to 35 inches per growing season, with rain ideally falling in the early spring and summer. A deficiency of water causes vines to produce smaller berries. Winemakers welcome this development, however, since higher sugar levels and additional wine complexity are the result of this water stress.

Throughout the European Union, natural rainfall is deemed the only source of water for viticulture, since it is yet another facet of a particular terroir’s uniqueness. Irrigation is rarely utilized in Europe, because it may adversely affect the quality of the harvest and make vines “lazy”: instead of reaching down through minerals for natural sources of water, they are content with artificially provided surface water.

We now plant vines in areas that lack ample rainfall. And even though these regions are within a zone of climate tolerance in both the northern and southern latitudes, they are dependent on irrigation. California and Washington practise irrigation on a massive scale, as do all the wine regions of the western provinces of Argentina Vineyards have been irrigated in Armenia and in the upper reaches of the Nile from time immemorial. In what would be otherwise hostile environments—such as the desert through which the Columbia River flows— irrigation can produce incredible wines.

The stunning wines that emanate from Tuscany or the RhôneValley speak to the value of traditional dependency on natural rainfall. New World irrigation techniques, however, can also produce sublime wines. Tradition or evolution? You be the judge, as you taste wines from these different regions.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Inspired by the nice weather this week, I went in search of a spring sipper, and found the award-winning 2011 Black Prince Riesling ($15.75).

This wine has a refreshing nose of lemoninfused honey, with flavours from the East of honeyed figs and fresh-from-the-tree nectarines. The finish is crisp and clean, with delicate lime undertones. Resident winemaker Geoff Webb has created this wine to stand alone as an apéritif, or to accompany a wide selection of foods.

Black Prince Riesling is available in the L.C.B.O., or at the tasting room at 13370 Loyalist Parkway, just west of Picton.