Louisiana Purchase

If California produces almost 86 per cent of the wine in the United States, where does the other 14 per cent come from? On the off chance early French and Spanish settlers would have needed wine for personal consumption and sacramental purposes, I recently went hunting for some local wine in Louisiana.

I found great efforts were made to plant European vines, but the all pervading humidity of the area made grapes susceptible to disease and mildews. Add to that the rich, water-soaked soil of Louisiana, and you create a recipe for disaster for a plant that only thrives when access to water is limited. In the early days, wine had to be shipped from Europe—an expensive proposition that may have led the local population to increased consumption of distilled spirits. That taste preference remains to this day, best celebrated with the world famous Sazerac cocktail.

The Volstead Act of 1919 gave legal power to enforce the Prohibition of alcohol mandated by the 18th Amendment. It essentially eliminated the small wine industry in Louisiana. But the people running stills, located deep in the swamps and bayous, made a fortune with readily-manufactured bootleg liquor. In early 1933, the Blaine Act recognized the failure of Prohibition by initiating the repeal of of the 18th Amendment. By the end of the the year, the 21st Amendment was ratified by Congress. December 5 is still celebrated in several states where patrons in restaurants, bars and wineries eat, drink and make exceptionally merry.

The end of Prohibition should have permitted Louisiana wine growers to replant, but they found themselves exposed to more rigorous state laws. Today there are fewer than 20 wineries in the Pelican State. Norton, Muscadine and Blanc de Bois grapes are planted in pockets of loamy soil that allow the vine to grow and thrive. Recently developed in Florida, Blanc de Bois grapes produce a crisp, floral, citrus wine that is also very suitable for the production of sweeter wines. Wine production in Louisiana remains small, with less than 100,000 bottles per year from domestic fruit. Some grapes are imported from nearby states, since Louisiana wineries are included in the Mississippi A.V.A. region.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Quality cannot be rushed. Brioche, the divine breakfast treat, requires two days to create its delightfully yeasty creamy flavour. The Grange of Prince Edward’s 2010, Lot 2 Brut Sparkling is similar in discipline: resting on the lees in bottles for one year results in a little bit of County perfection.

Tiny bubbles tickle the nose. The wine is crisp, yet a little creamy on the palate, with notes of toasted almonds and granny smith apples. A cleansing acidity on the finish begs another sip. Made from a blend of estate- grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, using the méthode traditionnelle, this is a perfect wine to celebrate Valentine’s Day.

The Grange of Prince Edward Brut is $29.95 and is available at the winery, 990 Closson Road.