Vintage virtuosos

The present position of a sommelier dates back to the wine stewards of the Pharaoh’s court, who documented the quality of vintages for their masters. It’s been a long road since.

During the Middle Ages, wine buyers and cellar masters ensured that the yearly wine requirements of European courts were purchased and laid down. Prior to the French Revolution, the Master of the Revels of each house was required to ensure the quantity and quality of wine to accommodate his master and guests.

The vast meals of Victorian and Edwardian England would be complemented by a large number of wines that were usually selected by the master of the house, acting on the recommendations of his butler. All withdrawals and all additions—with their fundamental attributes and potential—were carefully documented in a ledger. The English butler was indeed responsible for the wine cellars of his employer—assisting and advising in the purchase of wines from various countries, to assure a future for following generations.

During the Belle Époque, restaurants employed wine stewards to assist in the promotion of wine with food. It was the norm, until the mid-60s, for hotel managers to consult with wine agents on a yearly basis, to select the wines for their cellars and wine lists. The great hotels in the capitals of Europe and America would have a brigade captain or head waiter assume the mantle of wine steward, advising the guests as to the correct wine to complement their food selection. In iconic restaurants, headwaiters would rely upon an extensive wine knowledge that was the result of decades of apprenticeship.

In the early 1970s, it became commonplace to have a wine steward or sommelier assist in the selection of wine at the table side. Depending on location, this position was referred to by many names—the most notorious being “the wine wench” at the Hyatt hotel in Atlanta. Unfortunately, these stewards became more noted for shilling wine than recommending perfect matches. However, by the late 1970s, the position of sommelier experienced a renaissance. Society began to appreciate the marriage of food and wine.

Wine writers, collectors and sommeliers rose from the ashes to accommodate and provide all things wine.

When you visit a local winery to taste a recent vintage, you might be awestruck by the descriptive knowledge of their staff. Be assured they will always be able to describe, in depth and detail, offerings from their vineyard estates.

We have many such talented people working in the restaurants and wineries of the County. They can identify and recommend wines, not only by country, but also by region and varietal. This wealth of knowledge reflects a noted confidence in the wines produced within Prince Edward County.