Around the blend

Meritage is a rather new word that signifies a blend of varietals, in the manner of a Bordeaux wine. In the past, if a blended wine contained 75 per cent or more of one grape, federal regulations required it to be labelled under that varietal’s name. This law frustrated the wish of some winemakers to blend wine in a Bordeaux style.

So a group of Napa Valley wineries gathered in excess of 6,000 submissions to have their blended wines named Meritage. In 1988, the Meritage association was formed. By 2014, the association had over 350 participating wineries. Members pay-to-play, as the labelling fee is $1 per case, up to a maximum fee of $500. Members are strongly encouraged to use only their finest fruit—to maintain the brand’s cachet. Further, it is recommended that production be limited to 25,000 cases per member winery. And while these wines originate in a single vineyard, winemakers will often produce wine from very select blocks of vines—sometimes from very specific rows. This creates a cult-like following for their wines.

The blend of Meritage varietals is quite similar to Bordeaux. The reds add Gros Verdot and exclude Malbec, while the whites are limited to Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and/or Muscadelle du Bordelais varietals. There can be up to 90 per cent of any one varietal within the blend.

In Canada, Meritage wines are produced in both the Okanagan Valley and Niagara by Jackson Triggs. Ravine Vineyards and Palatine Hills Neufeld also produce exceptional Meritage in Niagara, reinforcing the status of the region. Within the County, The Grange creates premium wines from very specific blocks to display our local wines’ depth of character.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
It would be a sin to omit paying tribute to the wonderful wineries in the southern reaches of the County. There are a cluster of wineries, producing exceptional wines, that really require more than a day to visit and appreciate.

Half Moon Bay Winery is one such gem, producing incredible, mouthwatering crisp Pinot Gris. I was absolutely blown away by their 2012 Merlot, faithfully created by Brian Mitchell from vines planted in 2009.

Nose to tail, this wine is exceptional: with a titillating nose of raspberry and cocoa bean, and a palate that is a steam of red fruit, a hint of chocolate, and a whiff of nutmeg. The finish lingers long—a great expression of Merlot and our 2012 vintage.

I recommend a visit to the vineyard to secure some of their bounty, which also includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Reisling. Currently, the winery is open on Saturday and Sunday, but summer hours will begin on May 20. Half Moon Bay Winery is located on County Road 13.