Political vintage

While admiring the perfection within a glass of wine, it is sometimes hard to imagine the river of politics that flows in the background.

In many regions of Europe, national pride can stipulate which grape varietals may be grown in any given region. In the new world on the other hand, widespread experiments in planting reflect a desire to test different varietals within each terroir. It is almost impossible to imagine a planting of shiraz in the Bordeaux region—but a vineyard of gewürztraminer would be commonplace in the Napa Valley. In the County, we not only create exceptional wines from chardonnay, pinot noir and other sundry French varietals, we have recently introduced wines made from pinotage and viognier (perhaps soon tempranillo and dolcetto).

Europeans excel in production and have an excellent distribution network, while Americans produce exceptional wines (remember the judgment of Paris), but are hobbled by enormous distribution constraints. Because interstate laws inhibit the movement of wine across state lines, it can be easier for Canadian’s to purchase American wines. Likewise, in Canada it is difficult to get access to the stunning B.C. wines in Ontario and vice versa.

Politics has played an enormous role in wine since time immemorial. Romans tore up the vineyards in what is now Languedoc in order to protect their own market share. In modern times, a wine that does not fit within the normal spectrum is downgraded to a vin du table with a corresponding significantly lower price.

It is hard to believe the biggest retailers of wines in the US are Costco and Sam’s Club, since we are well served with the LCBO in Ontario. If we want a offshore delight, we can even purchase a bottle from the wine shops attached to select supermarkets. The secret to Canadian wine success is to buy local and keep the money in the community.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I just tasted the 2013 Huff Pinot Gris ($20), a wine that cries for the correct food to accompany its range.

Nose to tail, this wine demands attention from all aspects: the rays of sunlight to warm the glass to the aromas of tropical citrus, and a palate to appreciate memories of key lime and lemon meringue pie made with vanilla bean infused pastry. A deft blend of steel and wood softens the ever-present County minerality and, in fact, presents a creamy mouthfeel usually identified with a barrel-aged chardonnay.

As always, resident winemaker Frederick Picard excels with a treat available at their tasting room, located at the intersection of Highway 62 and County Road 1.