Sweet sherry

The history of sherry is entangled with the history of Spain. The Phoenicians introduced the vines and winemaking traditions of the Levant when they founded Cadiz as a trading post around 900 BC As time passed, Greek influences were revealed, with the addition of sweet grape syrup—reflecting a contemporary demand for a sweeter wine.

By he time the Roman Empire expanded into Spain, winemaking was firmly established in the region, and its exports were referred to as Ceretanum or wine from Ceret, an early name for Jerez and, by extension, sherry. To accommodate the Romans’ proclivity for sweeter wines, their wine was boiled during production to concentrate the flavours and sweetness.

From the fall of the Western Roman Empire until the Reconquista in the 12th century, wine production fell under the Moorish Caliphate. Alcohol was not part of Islamic culture, so what little wine was produced was usually for trade with northern states. The Moors did introduce, however, the art of distillation to the region creating an early form of brandy. Some of their renowned physicians used distilled spirits to disinfect wounds or surgical instruments. During their rule, the name of the town was changed from Ceret to Sherish—eventually to become Jerez de la Frontera in the 13th century, when it evolved into a frontier town between the Moors and the Christians.

After the Christian reconquest, the region’s wine fortunes improved. During the Age of Discovery, the various explorers spent more on wine than on armaments to sustain their voyages. Then, because of ongoing disputes with France, the English looked to Spain as a new source of wine. And wine from this region held sway in the English market until Henry VIII divorced Catherine of Aragon—leading to war between both countries, the Spanish Armada, and historical tall tales bolstered by propaganda.

Next week, we will continue with the wonders of sherry and, better yet, introduce you to a new County sherry by Black Prince Winery, made in traditional sherry barrels.

A number of shout-outs to the local wineries:

Keint-he has recently released a yummy estate-grown, Melon de Bourgogne.

Huff Estates has produced a sublime kosher Riesling that is creating a big stir, while at the same time finding a hitherto unfilled niche for County wines.

Mackenzie Brisbois has joined the Trail Estates Winery team to work her magic and charm, both in the winery and at the tasting counter.