Barrelling along

The solera system became the norm in Jerez simply because dynastic wars closed off many of their markets.

Solera is a method of fractional blending using a minimum of three barrels. Up to half of the wine in the oldest barrel is drawn off and bottled. The remainder in the oldest barrel is then carefully topped with wine from the second barrel—which in turn is topped off from the third barrel, containing the youngest wine. The third barrel is then topped off with the latest vintage, and so forth.

Wine merchants in Jerez noted that consumers demanded a wine with lots of residual sugar that also packed an alcoholic punch. Wines from Portugal were selling well when fortified to cater to this taste, and port wines were a lucrative market. In Spain, however, it was found—through trial and error—that the addition of alcohol killed off the flor that had uniquely marked the wine of this region.

So Jerez winemakers played with the amounts of alcohol, and the resulting exposure to oxygen, to create a new style of wine that we know as oloroso (pungent). Winemakers in neighbouring Sanlúcar decided to use less brandy to fortify their wine and aged it in caves located along the coast, producing fino sherries—called manzanilla (little apple)—that reflect the salt air of the Atlantic. Further experimentation determined that the must from the grape Pedro Ximenez oxidized slowly and created a cream sherry. Thank you, Harvey’s Bristol Cream.

The solera system is no longer confined to just sherry: it also plays a huge part in the production of vinegar, marsala, port, rums, whisky and Madeira.

THIS WEEKS PICK
Black Prince Winery recently released a County wine in the sherry tradition, made using the solera method. Geoff Webb produced the wine and Pete Bradford reassembled salvageable parts from surplus sherry casks to make it possible.

With an acceptable 14 per cent alcohol, this wine is firmly within the fino category. At room temperature, it displays the traditional characteristics of dried raisins, almonds and Seville oranges. The influence of the refabricated barrels allows the wine to take on burnt brown sugar nuance.

I recommend this unique County wine as a pre-dinner aperitif, and might also suggest it as a digestive. I also suggest it be chilled, to allow the nuances of the wine to develop within the mouth.

This wine, at $25 for a 500-ml bottle, is available at the winery, located on the Loyalist Parkway opposite Canadian Tire in Picton.