Desert wines

You can see on a globe that the wine regions of Bordeaux, Sonoma County and Napa Valley share latitudes with the Gobi wine region of China. However, the comparison ends there, since this new wine region requires the ultimate in TLC.

Vineyards in the Gobi of Inner Mongolia are subject to extremes similar to our own. Their winter temperature drops to -25°C (sometimes even lower), so they have to bury vines like wine growers in Prince Edward County. Desirable varietals have to be grafted onto local rootstock in order to survive in the hostile environment of the Gobi.

In the Dirty Thirties, the United States, under President Roosevelt, required that land be reclaimed from dust storms by replanting millions of trees. This action stabilized the land, and reduced the number of huge dust storms that had been caused by the removal of plain grasses and natural vegetation. Ninety years on, a similar problem faced the vineyards of the Gobi—and a similar solution was undertaken, with millions of trees planted to reclaim and stabilize the desert, and to present a buffer to the constant encroachment of the blowing sands.

In the high desert regions of Mendoza and San Juan in Argentina, water (taken from runoffs of the high Andes) is rationed for each vineyard, depending on their need. This challenges the vines to go deeper and produce sublime wines.

In the Gobi, they employ an irrigation system, perfected by the Israelis in the Negev desert, to minimize usage impact on the Yellow River. As in Argentina, the wines reach deep for the true character of a varietal. And, since water is better conserved, trees can be planted to reclaim the desert. Even better, alfalfa can be successfully planted to add nitrogen to the alkaline soil. This crop is sold to sheep farmers who, in turn, sell the sheep compost to winegrowers.

The cycle becomes symbiotic, each contributing to the wellbeing of the other in a challenging environment.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I am always one to appreciate a vintage once released. But if you invest in wine futures, purchase as much of the 2015 Long Dog Pinot Noir as possible—even before tasting a drop.

This wine transcends the boundaries of the County to a realm unique unto itself. It takes on Burgundian profiles and West Coast exuberance— tempered by exposure to new, inert French oak barrels. It is akin to a kiss to be received and remembered. Secure your case (or indeed, cases) very soon.