Italian inspiration

Although Italy has a history of sublime wines pre-dating the Roman Empire, it has also produced significant quantities of sub-par offerings that diminish their reputation. Much of this damage can be traced to a tradition of weak regulation.

In the 1960s Italy introduced DOCG legislation in order to compete with French AOC law, which guaranteed quality and quantity from specified regions, and consequently improved marketing results. There was a tad more leeway in Italian interpretation and execution— unfortunately.

These DOCG laws enjoyed an initial success when only classic wines were granted the mark. But lesser, undeserving wines in the same controlled region were eventually included in the list, and it became impossible to distinguish the good from the mediocre. Although the law could guarantee where the wine was produced, it was unable to fulfill its mandate to guarantee quality. The flaw resulted from the higher yield amount allowed in Italian vineyards compared with the more limited amount permitted in France. In some areas, the Italian crop yield is almost 45 per cent higher than in France—and the law allows production to be boosted by the blending of varietals.

Don’t let this be a reason to avoid Italian wines. Many Italian producers are quite circumspect in the manner in which they make wine. Top-notch Chianti producers in Tuscany take great pains to minimize quantity in order to maximize quality. (Off the top of my head I could name Castello di Ama.) Another good example, Soave, has a high content of the garganega varietal blended with a minimal amount of Trebbiano. Timeless classics such as Brunello, Barolo, or Amarone are defined by the rigorous standards of their regions.

The latest IGT (Indicazione geografica tipica) wines have also inspired a new wave of interest in Italian wine. Under this scheme, the potential of a geographic area is showcased with varietals that are not indigenous to Italy—sometimes blended with traditional varietals.

Fortunately, the buyers and tasters of the LCBO have criteria that tend to present the best that Italy offers in their bi-monthly catalogue.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
The perfect red wines to accompany Thanksgiving turkey dinner are pinot noir and gamay. Bigger wines such as cabernet sauvignon or zinfandel tend to overpower this native North American fowl. We have an abundance of pinot producers in Prince Edward County—each crafting their wine to reflect the style of the winemaker, the age of their vines, the vintage, and its location within the County.

It is not too late to visit some of our local wineries to select a bottle or two for Thanksgiving dinner. Don’t forget some sparkling wine for the family toast.