A perfect companion

Fermented beverages were preferred by early civilizations because they were safer for consumption than the water of the time, they were more nutritious, and (when consumed in quantity) they could have a psychotropic effect. The discovery of alcohol offered a “safe” alternative to disease-plagued water, which extended the lifespan of our ancestors, and gave rise to civilization. As the trade in wines from different regions began to flourish, the exchange of ideas and technologies was furthered.

This evolution began when Neolithic peoples established settlements that allowed the domestication of animals, grains and plants. As crops flourished, storage in skins and baskets became less effective; the potter’s wheel then began to create more permanent storage vessels around 6,000 B.C. These clay vessels allowed Egypt and Mesopotamia to import wine, respectively, from Palestine and the Zagros Mountains of Armenia. And then the grapevine itself was imported into both kingdoms: we find bas-reliefs in both cultures of citizens drinking wine under grape arbours.

The earliest reference to a dedicated wine-server was Ganymede, who was taken up to Olympus by Zeus to be given immortal life as cupbearer to the gods. (As a side note: Ganymede’s name is associated the honey drink, mead.) Since that time, kings and emperors would have had a wine steward not only to serve the wine, but also to taste it—not so much to assess quality, but more to prove the lack of poison. In the great households from the 13th century to the French Revolution, the Steward was an important position: managing all aspects of the household, including the wine cellar and an intimate knowledge of its contents. Around the turn of the 19th century, the first corkscrew was invented, and wine inventories became more extensive. In Great Britain, the onerous task of maintaining this stock fell to the butler. He not only kept the wine cellar under lock and key, but he also had a handy opener (the Butler’s Friend) that allowed a cork to be extracted for a simple “taste”. In the mid 1800s, the Wine Steward became a commonplace role in the dining rooms of the greater hotels throughout the world. And, over the last half century, the position has evolved into the Sommelier.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I recently happened upon a release of Casa Dea’s 2016 Sparkling Riesling, which I think to be a perfect companion for the upcoming Valentine’s celebration. This wine was developed with the Charmat Method, in which the second fermentation happens in a closed pressure tank, creating an alcohol volume of 10.2 per cent.

This wine is aptly named Embrace, as a salute to Valentine’s, and has a pleasant mouth feel, with a grapefruit marmalade finish. At $19.95, Embrace is available at Casa Dea’s winery, located on Greer Rd.