Mighty oaks from little acorns

While exploring the wine producing countries that border the Black Sea we should first visit Lebanon and Israel.

For over 6,000 years, there has been a wine presence in Lebanon supported by the Christian Marionette community. The most regarded vineyard, which has achieved an almost cult like following, is Chateau Musar located north east of Beirut in the Beqaa Valley. Established in the 1930s by Gaston Hochar, Chateau Musar has since remained in the same family and despite the ongoing conflicts within the country they continued to produce vintages. Musar red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre and Carignan, which varies with each vintage. The white is made from varietals related to Chardonnay and Semillon. Their wines are made in what is best described as a natural style, which allows for huge profile changes in each vintage. Despite this, the wine is a hot commodity in Europe and, to a lesser extent, in North America.

Israel has a long association with wine predating the miracle at Cana. Not all of its history is positive, however, as the wine produced was sweet and viscous. In relation to wine, it has been said that the Islamic prohibition might have been a blessing.

Israel’s unique winemaking strategy under the Jewish kashrut law allows them to produce kosher wines. This requires a Sabbath-observant Jew to be involved in all aspects of production from harvest to bottling. It also requires all fining agents be kosher and, in the case of Passover wine, be free of contact with grain, bread or dough. To be sold classified kosher, the wine must receive a seal of approval from an authoritative rabbi or display the “OU” seal of the Orthodox Union.

In 1882, Baron Edmond de Rothschild helped establish Israel’s Carmel Winery. He imported French rootstock and technical expertise to the region and, as they say, mighty oaks from little acorns grow. Today, Israel produces sublime wines. There has since been influence from South Africa, Australia and North America and now the number of vineyards exceeds 150.

Israel has five major wine areas with vineyards from Galilee in the north to the Negev desert in the south. Each area presents its own rewards and challenges; whether it’s achieving the balance of acidity versus sugar, in the north; or, the challenge of growing vines in a desert via drip irrigation. All these obstacles have been surmounted and today Israel exports over $30 million in wine, mostly to the United States with a growing demand in Canada. The primary red varietals are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The whites are Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. They are well worth sourcing out.

THIS WEEK’S PICK

Warm up to autumn with Casa-Dea Estates Winery’s 2008 Cabernet Franc ($18.95) by winemaker Paul Battilana. Aromas of wild raspberries, cranberries, allspice, layered with flavours of red fruit, cranberry, stewed rhubarb with a touch of vanilla. The clean, lingering finish is enhanced by the perceptible acidity.