Meet Marc

In last week’s article on the grappas of Italy, I noted that many other European countries make brandy from pomace. France produces several types of this brandy, which they collectively call “marc”: the most notable being “Marc de Bourgogne” that is distilled from the pomace of Pinot and Chardonnay grapes. There is, however, a distinct difference in the production of grappa and marc.

In Burgundy, the pomace is pot distilled once and the spirit is then stored in oak casks for a minimum of 12 years. This allows the spirit to mature, creating a smoother and more mellowed brandy. Aging in wood also causes the brandy to take on a rich tawny color. Production of “Marc de Bourgogne” is strongly regulated to meet strict criteria in alcohol level and fineness. If you are an aficionado of stinky cheese, you will love the fact that the skin of the cheese “Epoisses de Bourgogne” is washed with local marc, and that it is common to enjoy a glass of marc with this cheese.

The Champagne region also produces a marc that is difficult to find outside the region. It tends to be consumed locally or used in the production of chocolate truffles.

And, as with most things French, there always tends to be an exception to the rule: in this case “Marc de Gewurztraminer” from Alsace. It is distilled as a clear spirit and served chilled—like a fruit-based eau de vie.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
With spring on the horizon, our thoughts wander to glasses of chilled rosé wines, enjoyed on the deck with friends. This week’s wine is perfect for such an occasion, and will also complement this week’s recipe. While shopping at By Chadsey’s Cairns Winery last weekend, I was introduced to their 2010 Mme. St. Laurent Rosé, ($23.20) crafted by Vida Zalnieriunas from estategrown St Laurent grapes.

I loved the spicy red fruit aromas that tickled the nose. The deep color of this rosé reflects the varietal from which it is made. This wine explodes across the palate with red fruits, candy apple and cranberry, layered over a complementary minerality and a clean, crisp finish. I am incredibly impressed with the possibilities and versatility of the St. Laurent grape varietal. It is great as either a rosé, as in this style, or as a traditional red.

Even if it were not for this wine, a trip to the tasting room of By Chadsey’s Cairns Winery is worthwhile for the setting, located at 17432 Loyalist Parkway. It is real trip down memory lane.