Somewhere in the mists

As outlined previously, the wonderful palette of today’s grape varietals is the result of cross-hybridizations done somewhere in the mists of time. The development of new clones and vineyard management continues to evolve.

Perhaps the most widely regarded of Ontario wines would not exist but for the introduction of a new variety of vine in the Niagara region: Vidal. “Ugni blanc” (grown in France for brandy) and “rayon d’or” (developed by Albert Seibel) were crossed to produce a winter- hardy grape that was resistant to powdery mildew. Several Niagara vineyards planted this varietal because of these assets. When they noted its juice was packed with tropical notes and acidity, they realized they had an excellent candidate for the production of “ice wine”. In 1984, Inniskillin released the first ice wine, and the rest is history. Niagara winegrowers had to lobby very hard to promote the introduction of a little-known French hybrid. But the internationally acclaimed success that resulted strengthens a case for the introduction of other promising hybrids into our present inventory of vines.

There are several reasons to allow the planting of new varietals; not the least of which is their ability to withstand our winters and their resistance to disease. More importantly, the wine produced from these varietals is rather unusual and, when handled correctly, offers a brilliant counterpoint to pinot noir or chardonnay wines. It might be to our government’s advantage to support other new varieties — if only from a revenue perspective. And, because of the hardiness of these new hybrids, insurance companies might reduce premiums on crop insurance. (Fat chance…)

I am under no illusion that hybrids would replace public affinity and demand for wines made from “vitis vinifera”. But several wineries in the County — who produce wine made from hybrids and sell it in their tasting rooms — are rapidly winning converts to the surprising flavors of these offerings. A regular crowdpleaser, Baco Noir, is grown in the County and is a hybrid grown with the approval of thepowers- that-be. Consider how many other currently VQA-unsanctioned hybrids might have the same success.

Now is time to allow at least four new hybrids to be given VQA status. The results might amaze.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Casa-Dea Estates Winery has released their 2010 Gamay ($14.95). Quite frankly, I was impressed by the downright complexity of this wine. In the glass, the color is deep ruby, with a nose full of earthy barnyard, cherry, and fennel seed. The range of flavors surprises the palate; the fruit becomes apparent with a lively showing of strawberry, licorice and sour cherry finish.

This fine example of County Gamay is well executed by the winemaker Paul Battilana. The wine is available at the Casa-Dea Estates Winery, which is located on 1186 Greer Road, just west of Rosehall.