An inferior stopper

Last week we noted that cork has traditionally been valued as a stopper, since it excels at re-expanding to the shape of a bottle. A popular misconception holds that Dom Perignon devised a conical cork to better withstand the pressure that develops within a bottle of sparkling wine. Many also mistakenly think he was visually impaired, since he would blindtaste wine. Traditions must begin somewhere. Variation in cork quality and length customarily predicts the quality of wine in the bottle. A flawed cork will invariably create an environment that will taint the wine. Only the finest solid cork cylinders are chosen by the best wineries throughout the world, because they usually stamp their house name on the cork. Any blemish in the cork could, quite literally, stain their name.

That being said, the yearly cork harvest is finite and cannot supply all the wine industry’s demand. Other forms of stoppers had to be developed by necessity.

For wines that are to be consumed within two years of release, leftover cork is sometimes ground down and shaped with an adhesive. (The base is capped with a disk of pure cork to prevent contact between the wine and the adhesive.) Synthetic corks have also been developed for a similar purpose.

Although developed approximately 40 years ago, the Stevin screw cap was not widely accepted within the wine industry. Traditionalists felt it to be an inferior stopper, suitable only for mediocre wines. But southern hemisphere wineries embraced the screw cap to facilitate export of their wine to Europe and North America. Consequently, over the last decade, the attitude against the screw cap has done a complete about-face. It is now widely used throughout the world, because wineries know that their product will remain as perfect as when bottled, free from exterior contamination.

But the anticipation of great taste—created by drawing a cork from a bottle of fine wine — is a ritual pleasure that is hard to surrender. And sommelier panels continue to blind-taste.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
We are arriving at the time of year when it is wonderful to enjoy a glass of rich red wine. If you are willing to taste a red other than Pinot Noir or Cabernet Franc, I suggest you try this unique treat, created by Richard Karlo of Karlo Estates. The 2010 Fifth Element ($39) is made from Petit Verdot (small green) grapes. This varietal is so named because it is extremely persnickety. The grape persnickey clusters tend to require a perfect flowering season and late harvesting, otherwise they will not ripen. So, when the stars and weather planets are in alignment, Petit Verdot allows the winemaker to produce a very special wine.

Karlo’s 2010 Fifth Element displays the potency of the varietal with the deep rich color and spicy nose of west coast, wild eucalyptus. The palate is a big mouthful of anise, blackcurrant and plug tobacco with a balanced acidity.