Song and dance on the palate

The centre of the Pays de la Loire region is located approximately 60 km inland from the estuary of the Loire River which, in turn, feeds into the Atlantic Ocean. Not surprisingly, its wine is renowned for an excellent ability to pair with seafood, in particular oysters.

Muscadet is a dry white wine made exclusively from a grape varietal familiar to the County, Melon de Bourgogne. Dutch settlers introduced this varietal to the Loire Valley in the 1700s to provide a wine that could be distilled into a brandy to be sold in the Netherlands. But the natural pairing of this crisp wine to seafood soon became all too apparent. The wine evolved its own reputation, and it is described by many food writers as the perfect wine to pair with shellfish.

Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine is a sub-appellation of this region. The vineyards are located in the area where tributary rivers Sèvre and Maine join the Loire. This area would best be described as a cold climate wine region, were it not for the moderating effect of the Bay of Biscay located just 50 km away. Its rolling hills are mineral-rich and the subsoil is a geologic cocktail of schist, granite and volcanic rock. All these elements have a profound effect on the wine.

Melon de Bourgogne is best described as a neutral grape. Winemakers must employ a variety of techniques to fully realize the potential of this grape. When barrels of wine held back by winegrowers for personal use were observed to be superior to that which had been bottled, winemakers realized the critical difference lay in the fact that barrelled wine was still resting on the lees: dead yeast cells and partials that sink to the bottom of the tank or barrel after fermentation. Lees add a creaminess to the wine and—if fermentation takes place in a barrel—they function as a buffer that prevents the oak from overpowering the wine. They also add to the aging potential of the wine. One of the results of this technique is that small amounts of carbon dioxide may still be present after bottling: the wine will almost literally dance on your palate. This is a good thing that adds to the appeal of the wine.

As an aside, it was inevitable that government would get involved in this process. As with many other strange directives that emanate from European bureaucracy (the most interesting being the allowable curvature on a banana), Eurocrats now dictate many rules and regulations on the whys and wherefores of letting wine remain on its lees.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
There is a County connection to this story. Dan Sullivan of Rosehall Run has produced a Chardonnay Sur Lie that displays the characteristics of Chardonnay—but with a twist: light straw to the eye, notes of lemon and fresh baked biscuit on the nose. The palate is a crisp, Granny Smith peach and lemon citrus that is stacked on a backbone of balanced minerality and acidity. A hint of tiny bubbles make this wine sing.

This treat is available through the LCBO or at the Rosehall Run tasting room located on Greer Road. The price is a generous $14.95.

This week’s wine column is a look back at one of David’s favourites.