Game changer

Abundant archaeological evidence dates the production of cultivated vines to approximately 5,000 B.C. For many reasons, the style of those early wines is completely different to those of today. Back then wine was made from the fruit of wild vines. And—although it was a most happy discovery—the wine that resulted would likely have bordered on sour. Our forebears worked with the tools and technology available. Early wine was made in clay jars and, even if a cork stopper were used, these amphorae were porous and allowed air to enter. “Shelf life” would have been short.

But, from little acorns mighty oak trees grow. As the millennia went by, the art of winemaking improved. White wines from Egypt became fabled. Roman nobility began to desire specially created wines. The bulk of wines in those days, however, remained a thin offering that required some form of taste “assistance.” They were infused with herbs, honey and berries to disguise the sharpness of taste. Romans even used “toasted” bread in their cups to finesse the wine. Despite later advances made by monks in Burgundy, wines continued to be relatively thin and diluted. Bordeaux produced a wine simply named “claret,” because its color was more akin to a rosé. This style of Bordeaux continued to be exported right up to the 18th century.

Once the ability to mass produce bottles was acheived and cork was developed as the stopper of choice, everything changed. Wines were less susceptible to spoilage and could actually improve in the bottle. Today, claret is synonymous with rich, deep, thoughtful wines.

Next week we will continue to investigate how improved technology made possible rapid advances within the wine industry.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, I tasted the 2011 Rosehall Run Vineyard’s Defiant. Well named, it demonstrates the full potential of County fruit when the vines mature, in spite of the hard winters and the vagaries of Mother Nature. The fruit for this tasty treat is County-grown, and winemaker Dan Sullivan has matured this wine in a mix of old and new barrels.

In the glass this wine is a pronounced orange- hued pink, dissipating to a rim of washed dusty rose. The aromas are distinctly cherry, red raspberry, a suggestion of white pepper with a hint of vanilla, and cedar box (a result of the oak). Generous flavours of cherry, raspberry and cranberry are nicely set on balanced acidity.

Defiant is well priced at $18.95 a bottle and is available at the L.C.B.O. or at the Rosehall Run tasting room, which is currently operating on winter hours.