Romney style

Wine wasn’t always about scorecards and tastings. With some exceptions, wine was consumed in the Middle Ages much the same way we consume water today. Up until the 18th century wine was considered a safer alternative to drinking water, which was often of somewhat dubious quality. To meet the demand, grapes were harvested to yield a maximum amount of juice without regard to quality. This, of course, meant the majority of wine was insipid, and had a short shelf life.

There were exceptions to the rule. Monks in Burgundy identified the uniqueness of their “terroir,” and adjusted their vineyard practices to produce wines of superior quality (although they shared the short shelf life of their competitors). And if “safety” was the concern, how do you account for local folk washing off their feet and stomping down the grapes in a trough, before transferring the juice into a vat or barrel? It doesn’t sound very appealing does it?

Nonetheless, some wines have enjoyed particular favour throughout the ages. Many of these were produced from grapes that had been air-dried to concentrate the sugars: this results in higher alcohol and sweetness. Venetians, who controlled shipping to the East, imported this style from the islands of Crete and Cyprus, and later began to produce these wines along the Dalmatian coast. Because these wines were similar to the favoured wine of Roman Empire nobles, they were referred to as “romney.” Today, the Veneto region of Italy is renowned for its wines. Amarone, a truly breathtaking successor to the early “romney” wines, is made in the same fashion from air-dried grapes.

You can experience this tradition in a gutsy, innovative, one-of-a-kind treat from the County. Casa-Dea 2010 Adamo is an “appassimento” style (air-dried fruit) wine, made from estate-grown Cabernet Franc grapes.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week I sampled the 2009 Pinot Noir from Lift Haus Winery, located on Closson Road in Hillier. This wine is made from estate- grown fruit that is crafted into a delightfully fruit-filled wine.

With an incredibly deep rich colour in the glass, the nose is leather, spicy cedar and raspberry. The palate is kissed with flavours of cherries and vanilla. The sumptuous lingering finish, with a touch of old world attitude, makes this wine worth every penny of its price ($19.80).

Lift Haus also produces a killer Cabernet Franc, which is well worth tasting when you visit.