Angel’s share

If oxygen is so critical to life in general, what impact does it have on the life span of wine? The answer was little known until the the rebirth of scientific reasoning during the Enlightenment of the 1800s.

Prior to then, wine was transported in barrels, and was thus over-exposed to oxygen. This, of course, shortened the shelf life of the wine. It also gave rise to the notion of an “angel’s share” to explain how wine disappeared while being aged or transported in a barrel. (We now blame the phenomenon on “evaporation.” Sigh…)

What a difference a couple of hundred years make in the treatment of wine. Scientfic reasoning has enabled modern-day winemakers to overcome the negative effects of exposure of wine to air.

Some positive effects, however, result from exposure to air. Certain wines, spirits, beers and balsamic vinegars require oxgygen in particular to chemically achieve their full potential. Perhaps the best example is a sherry from southern Spain that is exposed to air through the “solera system”: each new vintage cascades down over already-blended wine to produce better flavour. The resulting exposure to oxygen, in this case, gives the sherry a “nutty” quality that is its hallmark. Variations in the methodology make it possible, with patience, to pair an entire meal with different styles of sherry.

“Terroir”—a celebration of the uniqueness of Prince Edward County as a wine region— comes to town this weekend. This year is particularly important to celebrate: the vast majority of the vines are now at least 10 years old, and have established deep roots to extract the distinctive minerality of the County’s underlying limestone bed.

It is time to recognize the talent of our winemakers and wine growers. They have introduced a wide array of vines, both vinifera and hybrids, to what was a relatively modest region that is now destined for greater fame. Their fruit has already produced internationally award-winning wines. Do not be surprised by the passion and dedication to their art that you will find when you take the time to speak with these folk.

It is also the time of year when wineries are on the cusp of releasing new vintages. As the vines have matured, so have the wines they produce. It is all out there for you to discover this weekend.