Rum running

What does rum running have to do with a sudden demand for sugar in Northern Europe of the mid 1600’s?

In 1534 King Henry VIII declared himself head of the Church of England in the First Act of Supremacy. Catholic monastic orders were abolished, and monks were expelled. Honey production, which had been fostered by monasteries, plummeted. The break with Rome necessitated a replacement for honey.

Fortunately, England had just established colonies in Barbados and Jamaica, where sugar cane had begun to flourish. Dutch interests, sensing the potential, funded and provided the machinery for the first sugar mill in Barbados. And where you have sugar, you have the potential for alcohol. Sugar plantation slaves—African, indentured colonists and those serving English prison sentences—distilled liquor from the remains of the sugar making process. And voilà! The pantheon of corporal spirits was introduced to rum, to brighten and sustain the otherwise mundane existence of the common folk.

Once again the timing was perfect. Due to European conflict, the Royal Navy’s requisite supplies of brandy were challenged. A quick switch to rum not only kept the Jack Tars happy, but also gave them a modicum of protection against scurvy. Rum production went from strength to strength. And the English were not alone: Staten Island boasts the first Rum distillery in North America, with Boston being a close runner-up. A royal desire to annul a marriage had created a need for sweets, which led to the Caribbean, which led to rum, which helped control of the seas.

Today, there are unique flavour nuances in rum that vary from island to island—much the same as the differences in whiskies, brandies and fine wines. Rum drinks can be political, as in the “Cuba Libre”, or of controversial recipe as in “Planter’s Punch”.

Prince Edward County, of course, has an historic relationship with rum running (and a variety of other spirits that were in high demand) to our neighbour to the south during Prohibition. They now have very liberal access to spirits, while here in Canada Big Brother protects us from our base desires.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, I was introduced to 66 Gilead’s “Duck Island” Rum ($63.95). The name, of course, makes a cheeky reference to the history of rum running (and stopovers) from Prince Edward County to New York State during Prohibition.

This is serious sipping rum, which cracks home at 45 per cent alcohol per volume. To allow the wonderful range of flavour profiles to shine through the heat shield of the alcohol, it is prudent to add a dash of water or one ice cube. The rum boasts prominent flavours of coarse-cut marmalade, Szechwan peppercorns, and cured tobacco leaf. Great on its own or as a base for a summer rum cocktail to be sipped, carefree, as the sun goes down.

The County’s only distillery, 66 Gilead, produces works of art in small batches.