Still wine

During Prohibition the only alcoholic beverages fortified wines such as sherry or port allowed to be sold. The majority of these wines were made from concord and delaware grapes by T.G Bright & Co or the Parkdale Wine Company (eventually purchased by Labatt’s).

There was money to be made, all the same. Harry C. Hatch had started out with a small liquor store in Whitby, but by 1923 had a controlling interest in Gooderham & Worts distillery. He made his fortune through the liquor trade to the United States during American Prohibition. (As a County connection, please remember much of this traffic travelled surreptitiously around both sides of Prince Edward County.)

As a man of vision, Harry set forth to develop a still wine industry in Ontario. By 1933 he acquired a controlling interest in Bright’s Winery located in Niagara. To insure the success of his substantial investment, he hired Adhemar de Chaunac, a French winemaker and chemist, to oversee development.

De Chaunac worked hard, planting new European hybrids that were more suitable to the Canadian climate, such as Siebel 9549 (which was renamed De Chaunac in his memory in 1972). He was also responsible for introducing chardonnay vines to Canada. He was important in the development of worldrenowned Canadian Ice Wines. He was even involved in the development of Andre’s Baby Duck made from lambrusca grapes. (Need I say more?)

As for Mr. Hatch, he died in 1946 and is buried nearby in Deseronto.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
It is always refreshing to visit wineries to appreciate the passion and pride that owners and winemakers take in their vineyards. Capitalizing on the location of the vineyard and type of terroir, they may well delight in the result of their labours.

This week I had an opportunity to experience a sublime treat: Exultet Estates 2012 Pinot Noir/Blanc de Noir. A “Blanc de Noir” wine is made from red grapes, without allowing the juice to have contact with the skins. When you contemplate the skill and dexterity required to make this wine, you might consider the winemaker to be a bit overindulgent.

But be prepared to be blown away. The colour is a light copper blush with a playful floral bouquet. The flavours on the palate are an array of fresh strawberry, young rhubarb and cranberry, with a perfectly balanced acidity and lingering toasted sesame seed finish. Aptly named “Mysterium”, this wine is produced from estate-grown fruit that is not subjected to pesticide sprays.

Exultet Estates, is located on Royal Rd. in Milford. This unique wine is well priced at $30. It’s a great reason to visit to this wonderful area of Prince Edward County.