A challenging time

There are many factors that determine whether a particular vintage is great, average or poor. We have seen this many times in the County: a late spring that reduces the potential crop, or last year’s early spring promise that was broken by a heartwrenching killer frost. And even if local wine producers make wine from the remaining secondary growth, you can’t help wonder: what if the weather were just a little different? Any vintage, regardless of geographical location, require two constants that will make or break them: rain and temperature. And once the grapes are ready, the race is on to harvest—before any calamity can befall the crop.

The scenario is the same around the world. Burgundy is a prime example of what can go pear-shaped in any given year. They went from an excess of rain causing mildew and rot, to the devastation of a hailstorm that simply destroyed the grape clusters. And weather conditions are not the only hazard. French wine regions during the Second World War were crippled because chemicals for nurturing crops were diverted to the demands of munitions industries.

What do you do when your worst fears are realized? If a harvest is less than expected, or does not meet their standards, many of the wine houses in Europe will invariably forgo releasing their first label and use the fruit in the production of their second label. In 2012, Chateau d’Yquem gave up 25 million Euros in potential revenue by deciding that the quality of the fruit was so poor it could only be used for their second label. They had an enviable reputation to protect, one that far exceeded any loss of revenue. Similarly, Italian wine producer Altissimo will routinely use their fruit to produce a robust Vino Rosso if they feel the harvest is not suitable for their iconic Brunello.

This year was challenging for the vine growers of the County. The summer was extremely hot, without any significant rainfall until the last four weeks; the vines were stressed until the rains came and allowed vineyard managers to breathe a major sigh of relief. Ironically, the soil was so dry that the rain simply soaked into the ground, without causing major damage to the sugar content of the grapes. So, as with all things in life, let us travel hopefully!

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I really was delighted to finally experience the array of fine wines produced by winemaker (and jack-of-all-trades) Chris Karja, owner of Gravel Hill Vineyards. Chris produces a fine selection of wines crafted from both hybrid and vinifera vines.

I was particularly taken by his excellent dry Vidal, and more so by his Gravel Hill Cabernet Franc, which displays the potential for cabernet franc as a truly great County wine. Basically, nose to tail this wine has it all—at the super price of $17.75 per bottle. The Vidal costs $14.75. These are simply great value wines.

Well worth the visit, Gravel Hill Vineyards is located on Closson Rd., and is open weekends only (or by appointment or chance).