A chronology of Chianti

Perhaps the most recognized Italian wine, Chianti has a fabulous back-story. Around 600 BC, vines were brought to the region from the Middle East, where the Etruscans (for whom Tuscany is named) soon became famous for their winemaking skills. The Italian peninsula would see the rise and fall of the Roman and Byzantine Empires— along with the ravages of the Goths, Vikings and North African pirates. Throughout the passing centuries, however, wine was always produced in the region around the town of Chianti.

When the Kingdom of Italy was formed under King Victor Emmanuel II in 1861, two things happened to redefine the region and the composition of the wine we know as Chianti.

The first change was to broaden the region’s area. Prior to this reunification, the original Chianti area had been limited to the villages of Radda, Castellina and Greve. (In 1716, it was one of the first regions ever to be so delineated.) These villages, and their surrounding areas, still produce exceptional examples of Chianti.

The second change was in the composition of the wine. Until that time, it was common for the regional wine to have little or no finesse or, indeed, any shelf life. Local wine makers took far too casual an approach to improve the quality of their wine. Fortunately, around 1850, one of the local barons decided to improve the wine from his vineyards and, by experimenting with blends and varietals, developed the wine that we now know as Chianti. At that time, Chianti was a blend of sangiovese, canaiolo nero, trebbiano and malvasia. The latter two white varietals accounted for up to 20 per cent of the composition of the wine. His methods were copied by local growers and are used to this day.

By the mid 1960s, however, malvasia was dropped from the mix, and trebbiano was allowed up to 30 per cent—giving rise to a series of thin vintages of pale wine that were tastefully presented in a wicker-wrapped bottle. The wine was so insipid that it had be beefed up with the robust reds from Calabria. That was when the region underwent another renaissance: the introduction of DOC laws and strict enforcement that grapes must come from within the Chianti region.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I paired a sumptuous 2012 Harwood Estate Meritage with a grilled rib steak and, boy, it was fabulous.

This blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot has a huge berry-filled nose that draws you into an explosion of blackberries, damsons, blueberries and cherry cobbler. The tannins do not overwhelm, and the finish is a subtle blend of espresso and chocolate truffle.

This is an excellent special occasion wine for the upcoming festive seasons. This beauty shows best if decanted two to three hours prior to consumption.

The wine is available at the tasting room on the Loyalist Parkway just west of Hillier. The cost per bottle is $39.