A dozen eggs and a black chicken

In the mid 19th century, the Californian wine industry was fledging. In 1857, Charles Lefranc—a French pioneer— established his vineyards by planting Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Malbec and Semillon. His wines were reputedly excellent and, with the assistance of his son-in-law, Paul Masson, their names remain synonymous with the industry today.

Interestingly, during this time, Sonoma was the established grape growing region and the Napa Valley was used for livestock and various other farming. The Napa Valley was a latecomer to wine growing, but by the late 1860s, vineyards were established by such notables as Charles Krug and John Daniel. In fact, it was under the tutelage of Charles Krug that Karl Wente and Jacob Beringer learned their skill and established their own vineyards.

By the turn of the 20th century, California was exporting wine to Europe, Canada, Australia and the Orient. These wines were impressive and winning accolades at the Wine Expositions in Europe. Simultaneously, the Temperance Movement was gaining traction and by the outbreak of the First World War, 33 states were dry. In 1920, the Volstead National Prohibition Act came into being, forbid ding the manufacturing, sale and transportation of all intoxicating liquors. This law in North America had a similarly devastating effect as the Phylloxera epidemic in Europe, reducing wine production by 95 per cent.Within this new law there was an allowance for families to produce up to two hundred gallons of non-intoxicating cider or fruit juice per year, thus giving birth to the underground bootlegger movement.

There is a true story of the “Black Chicken” used as a euphemism by the Biale family in Napa Valley. When I met Mr. Biale, he told me of his family’s long established history in the Californian wine industry. This was during a time when rural telephone services were communal and known as party lines.As such, any nosey neighbour on the same loop could listen in on the latest gossip. So, when someone wanted a jug of preferred intoxicating beverage, you called the farmer/bootlegger and ordered fresh eggs, butter and (the code) a “Black Chicken,” which was a jug of red wine that was, and still is, made from Zinfandel. Throughout Prohibition the family grew these grapes as a crop to make raisins and their now very prestigious “Black Chicken”.

Next week back to Europe and the Phylloxera epidemic.

This week, I tried a refreshing 2010 Riesling by owner/winemaker Kimball Lacey of Lacey Estates Vineyards. Made from 100 per cent estate grown fruit, this wine is bright gold with a nose of Empire apple and spiced Poire Williams. The palate is fresh pear with a hint of lime and a beautifully balanced acidity that carries the flavors to a lingering finish. Enjoy this wine with food or just kick back and enjoy a glass as the sun sets.