A fine judgement

We should give a major shout-out to the County wines that participated in the Judgement of Kingston—with special congratulations to Rosehall Run (Gold) and Closson Chase (Silver) for their award-winning chardonnays. The last similar upset occurred 40 years ago, when the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was chosen best at the Judgement of Paris—changing worldwide perception of Napa Valley wines.

The local success is all the more outstanding, given that the Napa Valley competition benefits from a greater diversity in terroir, soil type and climate.

The Chateau Montelena vineyard, for example— located at the top of Napa Valley and overshadowed by Mount St. Helena—is a winegrower’s dream. This vineyard benefits from alluvial soil spread by the Napa river, over a sedimentary base created by a prehistoric lake, that is kissed (as is most of Napa Valley) with a dusting of volcanic ash. It is also blessed by the “The Gap”, a break in the coastal mountains to the west, which allows cool winds from Geyserville (and the ocean) to reduce evening temperatures.

The Grgich Hills vineyard, located further down the valley in Rutherford, has yet a different climate. Its patriarch, Mike Grgich, was originally from Croatia, travelled through Germany, and spent time in the B.C. wine industry before moving to California. As wine maker at Chateau Montelena, it was he who crafted the chardonnay that took the prize at the Judgement of Paris. Today, he produces his own outstanding wines without the use of artificial fertilizers, herbicides or pesticides—using only natural yeasts. (He even converted the winery to solar power in 2006.)

And, last but not least, the Clos du Val Chardonnay is crafted from grapes grown in the Carneros AVA region that straddles the Napa and Sonoma regions. Located across the Golden Gate Bridge, just north of San Pablo Bay, Clos du Val has grown chardonnay vines since 1984. With thin and shallow soil, and proximity to the cool winds and fog from the Bay, this region has serious challenges. (County winemakers can readily appreciate this cool climate challenge.)

And yet County representations won against all these formidable wines in Kingston earlier this month!

THIS WEEK’S PICKS
It is once again time to celebrate and enjoy fresh, youthful wines.

Hillier Creek Estates will release their fresh Gamay Nouveau this week. This is such a cheerful wine, bright in the glass, the nose a tease of light spice, the mouth an embrace of red currant and raspberry that lingers. Available at the winery located on the Loyalist Parkway just west of Hillier, this is a wine to celebrate this year’s harvest.

The Baco Noir Nouveau from Trail Estate Winery is another treat. Its unusual nature captures the imagination, because the varietal shows its pedigree despite its youth. It is available at the winery located on Benway Road.