A legendary spirit

Normandy has been renowned for its cider and beer since as far back as the eighth century. The first distillery, however, was not established until the mid-fifteenth century, on the south bank of the river Seine in the area now called Basse- Normandie. From their already-famous dry apple cider, the Normans an equally legendary distilled spirit called Calvados.

It became part and parcel of French history. In the early industrial age, factory workers commonly took a Calvados with their coffee. When the phylloxera louse devastated French grapevines in the early twentieth century, this apple brandy came to the rescue: demand for Calvados reached new heights. It was conscripted into the French war effort during WWI because of its high alcohol content. But, despite this vital contribution, it was not until 1942 that Basse-Normandie gained an “appellation contrôlée” status to assure the quality of Calvados distillation. This was perhaps not the best timing for a market debut: two years later the Allies would spearhead the invasion of Europe across the countryside of Normandy, and the area would be devastated by warfare. (While marching through Normandy, several Canadian regiments did, however, adopt Calvados as their regimental beverage.) Fortunately, the industry was rebuilt from the ground up after WWII, and the newly regulated Calvados name was able to benefit from newly constructed distilleries.

Calvados can be distilled in a pot still or column still, but attention to quality is paramount. Depending on the distiller, up to 100 different of apples, varying from sweet to bitter, can be used to produce the dry cider prior to distillation. When distilled in a double pot still, the apple brandy is placed in oak casks for a minimum period of two years. Grades of quality depend on the amount of aging: “Fine” for a minimum of two years, “Reserve” for a minimum of three years, “Vieille Réserve” for four years and “Hors d’Age” for six years or more. When grades are blended, the bottle will generally display only the age of the youngest spirit. This oak aging imparts an inviting, light caramel color. And, as with all spirits, the longer it stays in barrel, the smoother it becomes.

A Calvados is a delightful way to finish a meal. The L.C.B.O usually carries a selection in their Vintages section, and you will find the price most friendly.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week I tasted the 2011 Frontenac Gris Rosé ($16), crafted from estate-grown fruit by Richard Karlo of Karlo Estates. This is a deep rosé, with a nose of cherry and strawberry. The first sip is a blend of pink grapefruit, candied strawberries and ripe tropical fruit — stacked over crisp acidity. This is an off-dry offering that will appeal to those who enjoy an alternative to dry wines. For those hot summer evenings on the deck it would be perfect as an aperitif. For dinner, it would be a perfect match for Thai or Caribbean cuisine.

Frontenac Gris is a varietal that has yet to receive worthy recognition from the L.C.B.O.

So, to enjoy this local secret, you will have to visit the Karlo Estates tasting room located at 561 Danforth Road, just west of Wellington.