A local gem

In the beginning, fine wines were reserved for the patrician class. But as the middle class grew, they began to demand better wines. To cater to this new market, costs had to be trimmed. Wine growers began to work with various European universities to develop new vines and streamline winery operations. As a result, the quality and availability of European wines reached a high point (notably in France and Germany) in the latter half of the nineteenth century.

Unfortunately, the phylloxera infestation arrived at that moment. Fortunes were lost. In France, military intervention occasionally became necessary when winegrowers rose up against wineries that imported grapes from outside their “appellation” areas. But, as Europeans recovered from the phylloxera epidemic, they not only replanted vineyards but they also rebuilt wineries. Traditional knowledge was combined with modern technology. A golden age for the wine industry ensued that primarily benefited the wine consumer with an abundance of fine vintages.

And then, twentieth century warfare began. The First World War (and a resulting outbreak of Spanish Influenza), civil wars, and World War II, all combined to reduce the full potential of wine production. Between 1900 and 1930 only four vintages were deemed exceptional. Fortunately the fighting stopped. After decades of conflict, vineyards again recovered, assisted to some degree by chemicals that had been unavailable during the fighting.

Nearly 50 per cent of the years after World War II — up to the mid 1980s — experienced good to great vintages. Quality depended, of course, on the weather of the growing season: vintages were thus radically different. (We in the County can well appreciate the role of weather in the success of a vintage.) The wine industry was back on track.

Next week: Barrel, Concrete and Steel.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
This week, try County Cider Company’s Waupoos Cider to accompany Lili’s recipe. With a mouth-watering, tart apple explosion on the palate, it makes a great palate cleansing beverage for a Super Bowl party.

As with winemaking, good cider is a yearlong process. Owner and cider-master Grant Howes oversees every facet in the production of County Cider. Not only does he apply traditional Bavarian purity laws, but he has also begun to replant with older varieties of apple trees that are pest-resistant and require less chemical spraying. (Something to keep in mind when purchasing imported fruit.)

County Cider adds value to our economy by “growing” its product from apple shoot to cider shot. This company is a real gem when you consider that, in Canada, we currently have the tendency to rip out our orchards in favour of importing fruit. County Cider reminds us of our heritage, when beer and cider were the beverages of choice for rural communities.

At this time of year, the Waupoos Cider is available at your local L.C.B.O.