A perfect time

If you manage to be in the right place at this time of year, you might catch the attention of the vineyard manager (owner, winemaker—basically jack-of-alltrades) agonizing over his vines, trying to determine the correct time to harvest and thinking ahead to the best choice of yeast for fermentation after the harvest.

It was such a pleasure recently when I dropped by Del-Gatto Estates on a trip to visit the hidden vineyards of South Bay and Cressy. I was hoping to share a few moments with Pat Del-Gatto because he is so passionate about the wines he produces from a mix of hybrids, even while maintaining a larger selection of vinifera vines. Pat crafts a selection of wines with a devoted following: his County Baco Noir routinely sells out. He is the only County grower of pinotage, a South African varietal that has taken well to the rigours of our local climate— and from which Pat crafts an exceptional wine for which the demand currently exceeds his production capacity

I always enjoy a conversion with winemakers because they will share their keen passion for how special their vineyard is with regards to soil type and microclimate— and its impact on the harvest in any given year. In walking the rows, Pat showed me damage caused by wasps and ants, who drained the grapes for their liquid during our summer heat wave. (I suspect we have all seen an increase of ants in and around our houses this year for much the same reason.) It is always a total pleasure and privilege when an owner invites you to into the vineyard to see the progress and condition of their fruit. And while this is the perfect time for this to occur, never forget it is truly bad form to wander off without the permission of the owner.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I always recommend a wine tour of the County, because each winery is unique and the winemakers are passionate about their craft.

On my tour, I also visited Half Moon Bay Winery and tasted its wonderful 2013 Merlot, and I must congratulate winemaker Brian Mitchell. Huff Estates and Half Moon Bay craft wine from merlot grapes grown in adjacent vineyards in this region. The difference in results is due to the passion and vision of the winemaker. Brian presents an exceptional counterpoint to Frédéric’s award-winning wine.

Brian’s wine is a glass that captivates from the first pour. The deep brick color catches the eye. The nose is a list of spice and merlot fruit. The wine on the palate dances on the tongue, showing red fruit, spices, a touch of tobacco and cedar. Totally a winner!

There is not a lot of this charmer left and you’ll need to travel to the winery to procure some. At $24 a bottle, however, it is well worth the trip down County Road 13. Enjoy the experience.