Adaptation

In the late 18th century, following North American colonization, the lack of success of the initial plantings of European vines did not spell the end of viniculture in the new world. John Adlum, surveyor and viticulturalist, enjoyed great success with a varietal, which is a cross between vitus lambrusca and possibly a vitus vinifera. The result was a varietal that produced a sweet, musky wine and was named after a river in North Carolina, the Catawba. Nowadays, this varietal is used in jams and jellies.

In 1825, Nicholas Longworth of Cincinnati, Ohio, received cuttings of this varietal and by 1842, was growing 1,200 acres of this vine along the banks of the Ohio River. At this time, Ohio was the largest producer of wine in the United States and the wine commanded a wide market, not only domestically but also in Europe. By 1859 the Ohio River was being compared with the Rhine. Unfortunately, the ensuing War of Northern Aggression, combined with fungus-related diseases, ravaged the vineyards. Following the Civil War, growers moved north to the breezy shores of Lake Erie where the vines continue to thrive to this day.

The Finger Lakes in upper New York State established a wine industry post Civil War. While they initially grew Catawba, Concord, and a variety of hybrid grapes, they now grow many German, French and Austrian varietals with great success.

Next week we will travel west with the 49ers and explore the history of wine in California.

Now here is a fantastic surprise by John Battista Calvieri and Joseph Calvieri (brothers) of Hubbs Creek Vineyard. This 2009 Pinot Noir ($27) is an unfiltered beauty that boasts all the Pinot Noir characteristics that you would expect from vines sourced from Dijon, Burgundy. The nose is classic saddle leather, barnyard and cherry clafoutis with a hint of marzipan.The approach on the palate is layered red fruits of pomegranate and cherry with anise. The acidity and pronounced tannins make it a great combination with our spring and summer bounty. This wine should be decanted and is a must-try for Pinot enthusiasts with only 70 cases produced.