Adventures in agriculture

Edgar Ramirez inspects the underside of a hops leaf for larvae that might help or hinder his crop.

Hillier grower seeks to expand upon County heritage supplier to beer makers

Edgar Ramirez enjoys a good beer. Cold, flavourful with a hint of bitterness. This is a bit ironic since he makes his living growing wine and managing vineyards. For more than a decade Edgar has worked with local winegrowers gaining a deep-rooted expertise and a strong reputation working with finicky vince and troubled vineyards. There are few people in this region who have Edgar’s unique insight into the bugs, disease, fungus, pests, birds, soil and climate that define and shape wine growing in Prince Edward County.

Now Edgar is turning his skill and expertise to art of growing hops. When he purchased some land on the edge of Hillier last year (just east of Hillier Creek Estates), Edgar, of course, planted some grape vines but he also planted 1,000 hops vines—a key ingredient for making beer. He has planted seven varieties some from B.C. and some from Big Island hops grower, Larry Roche.

“There wasn’t enough stress in growing grapes,” said Ramirez with a twinkle in his eye. “I guess I was looking for challenge.”

Edgar’s first job in the County was with Richard Johnston and Vida Zalnieriunas of By Chadsey’s Cairns Winery west of Wellington.

Richard sees it as a clever move for the energetic and entrepreneurial Ramirez.

Beer has as much hipness as wine does now, with all the craft breweries popping up,” said Johnston. “I think it is really smart to return to the County’s tradition of growing hops for this growing market.”

SEED IS PLANTED
Edgar was prodded to consider growing hops a few years ago by his mother-in-law, Ruth Crawford. Ruth is a keen reader, explorer and writer about County history, particularly its agriculture history. Her late husband, Doug Crawford, wrote the definitive work on the County’s canning era entitled County Canners: A history of the Canning Industry in Prince Edward County. He also gathered what became the Douglas A. Crawford Canning Industry collection at the Wellington Heritage Museum.

Ruth reminded Edgar of the County’s history as a supplier of barley and hops to the U.S..

For more than a century, County hops and barley earned a premium in the U.S. market for its superior quality and taste. But in time the demand dwindled and the purchasers looked elsewhere. The barley days faded into history.

In recent decades, however, small and microbreweries such as Barley Days Brewery in Picton have emerged, capturing a growing share of the market. Most are making beer and building a brand around high quality ingredients in small batches. They are catering to the discerning beer drinker—those seeking rich distinctive flavours and unique taste. Hops are a big part of creating this unique and distinctive flavour. Edgar is looking to tap into the expanding market.

He spent much of the past year researching and reading everything he could about growing this crop. In the spring he made the leap.

BUDDING PLANTS
Like many varieties of grapevines, hops need attention and steady care, to grow well and productively. The first thing hops need is a tall climbing structure. The vines will grow 20 feet or more producing a fruitful cone every few inches along the vine. To assist the plants reach skyward Edgar has erected an elaborate trellis system—each row anture chored by 23-foot cedar poles sunk at about a 60° angle three feet into the ground. Strung between each anchor post is high tension cable. Every foot or so, twine reaches up from each hops plant to guide and support the growing vine.

He says the structure must be strong enough to endure heavy winds that blow off Lake Ontario and funnel through the valley shaped by the creek. Otherwise, a season’s work might end up a tangled mess in a matter of minutes.

Edgar has two plots of hops planted—a third of acre on low land near Loyalist Parkway—another two-thirds of an acre on the higher ground south of Hillier Creek. The creek is unusually high for July, so access to the south field for Edgar and his three workers is made by clambering across a fallen tree traversing the narrow but fast flowing waterway below

As he guides the visitor through the elaborate trellis system, he points out subtle differences between varieties of hops. Some are growing well in the back field; not as well in the front. One variety’s topmost leaves are yellowing slightly, telling Edgar that despite plenty of rain this spring, the plants are needing more water, after 10 days without meaningful rainfall.

Edgar pauses on the natural bridge across Hillier Creek.

Edgar rolls over a leaf revealing an array of dots, each containing the larvae of developing bugs—some good, some bad. Understanding which is which is key to the health of the crop and learning how to manage the care of the vines. He isn’t using any pesticides, natural or otherwise, this season so that he and his team can understand the threats, challenges and advantages this bit of Hillier ecosystem provides to these vines.

FRUIT OF THE VINE
The flower of the hops vine form a cone on the female plant. In late September, Edgar and his crew will harvest the cones by snipping the vines at the bottom of the plant and at the top of the 18-foot-vine on top of home-made elevated platform designed to roll between each row. Then the vines are laid on a wagon and the cones picked manually and packaged in airtight bags ready for shipping. Larger growers use a harvesting machine to separate the cones from the vine.

The hops impart a tangy, floral and often bitter quality to the beer in which it is brewed. Edgar says the cones smell vaguely of grapefruit.

Edgar expects to sell most of his crop to craft brewers in the region, some of whom have already signalled their interest in this local supply of fresh hops.

COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE
Born and raised in Mexico, Edgar speaks the language of many of the guestworkers who tend the vines and till the soil in the County. He communicates easily with them, sharing ideas and techniques. Many have been working in agriculture in one form or another all their lives—they see what others don’t, and know how to respond to fend off potentially devastating issues.

Together they know how to make high-maintenance plants and tender crops grow and thrive. They know the warning signs and how to respond. Perhaps most importantly they are working with the plants virtually every day, spending long hours tending to the vines, weeding, pruning and watering.

“Back home they grow tomatoes, pepper and papaya,” said Edgar. “This is a learning process for me, but together our diverse agriculture experience really helps.”

Edgar hasn’t staked his future entirely on the hopsyard— he has also planted 7,000 grapevines this spring—mostly Chardonnay. A good chunk of his land is rented out and currently growing soybeans. And Ramirez Vineyard Management continues to be a highly-sought service provider to many growers in the region.

Nevertheless, he has invested a great deal of his creative energy and capital into figuring out whether the County can once again become an important grower of superior hops. This fall the tale will be told in the beer that is brewed with Edgar’s hops.