An enduring tradition

Ontarians are justifiably proud of their award-winning dessert and ice wines. Today, however, I want to write about a French dessert wine that has been in production for over two millennia: the iconic Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, made from muscat blanc à petit grains.

This grape is among the oldest grape varieties still in existence. Around 300 B.C., the Greeks introduced it to France through their trading port of Massalia (Marseille). In 70 A.D., while Governor of Southern France, Pliny the Elder mentioned the quality of this wine in his Natural History. It accompanied King Louis IX on the Seventh Crusade. During the Avignon Papacy, production was increased to cater to the demand of the Papal Court. I find it interesting that this region did not receive its own AOC until 1943, during WWII, when the Vichy Government controlled that part of France. (It is perhaps another case of wine thumping politics.) All the same, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise has enjoyed a devoted following for over 2000 years.

The vineyards that produce this wine are located in the southern Rhone Valley, between the river and the Luberon-Ventoux Mountains. Nowadays, approximately 500 hectares are planted with this grape varietal (also known as muscat de frontignan) for the production of this vin doux natural (V.D.N). Muscat produces a naturally sweet juice. In the production of a dessert wine, however, fermentation is stopped—once the alcohol level reaches 5 per cent—by adding a pure 95 per cent (190 proof) grape spirit. The end result is a golden, lightly fortified wine with a natural sweetness that is best served chilled. It makes a wonderful aperitif, is a magic combination with foie gras, and serves perfectly as a wine to accompany desert.

Muscat de Beaumes de Venise has a following that equals or surpasses that of Sauternes, and is cracking good value. The wine is usually available through the Vintages section of the L.C.B.O, and is usually available in the half bottle format.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Polenta is the definition of creamy delight. I would match Lili’s polenta with Black Prince Winery’s 2010 Chardonnay ($14.95). The deep color of corn straw will impress you; the nose is a flinty, candy apple with a hint of brûléed demerara sugar. Bosc pear and chervil flow to a smoky papaya finish on the palate.

Black Prince Winery’s Chardonnay is available at the winery located at 13370 Loyalist Parkway, just west of Picton, or at the L.C.B.O.