Ancestral vineyards

We would not recognize ancient vineyards. They were not grown in the trellised rows we expect, but were allowed to cover up to an acre of land with new root systems forming wherever the vines touched the ground. The clusters of grapes were supported by wooden props to allow airflow, prevent rot and, most importantly, prevent field mice from eating them. This provignage method allowed vines to expend their vitality and energy in the production of leafy branches, as opposed to the modern drive to direct the energy to the fruit.

It all began with those intrepid adventurers and traders, the Phoenicians. Through their contacts and trade around the Mediterranean— from their home ports, beyond the Pillars of Hercules, up to the northern reaches of the Iberian Peninsula. They propagated vines that are now thought to be the parents of the most widely planted and recognized grape varietals grown throughout the world.

Early Greek settlers in Southern Italy began to stake their vines as early as 800 B.C., as other civilizations in the Mediterranean basin began to experiment and develop techniques to maximize the quality of the grape harvest and, by extension, the quality of the wine.

In the early Roman vineyards, it became commonplace to allow vines to climb onto the branches of trees. Much the same as today, the grapes were harvested by an itinerant labor force. But the job was definitely more dangerous, since the ripe fruit was twenty or thirty feet above ground. In his 37-volume treatise on Natural History, Pliny the Elder wrote of the benefits of using pergolas to support the vines. He was an early advocate of vineyard management, and also recognized the uniqueness of terroir and its influence on vines and wine.

Around this time, the vineyard that we would recognize today became the norm. Ever since, the methodology has been fine-tuned.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Sandbanks Winery is located on Loyalist Parkway just west of Wellington. It is always a must-stop for wine tourists that pass through the County. Over the years, Sandbanks has gone from strength to strength, introducing a combination of fun, approachable wines, alongside a more serious selection of foodfriendly wines—all priced to please every budget.

I just tasted their 2014 Sandbanks Pinot Grigio, and enjoyed the crisp layers of pear and almond on the palate. The wine caresses and teases the mouth with bursts of fruit and shows a crisp, clean finish.

This nice summer sipper can be enjoyed— without breaking the bank—while firing up the barbecue. It is available at the LCBO or at the Sandbanks tasting room.