Another gift from the vine

Archaeologists tell us that primitive wine, made from wild grapes, can be dated to around 8,000 B.C. By 5,000 B.C., random gathering of wild grapes evolved into specialized cultivation to provide food and produce wine. Use of the vine spread throughout the ancient world, inspiring cultivation of other crops that enabled early societies to settle and develop. Early civilizations therefore shared much in common: in particular the foods available to them. Throughout the eastern Mediterranean, and as far west as what is now Iran, there were similarities in the food stocks grown or livestock raised.

The grape leaf was important everywhere. Historic records show that Sumerians quite widely used grape leaves to wrap food. The ancient Greeks used it for medicinal proposes — to decrease inflammation, reduce pain and stop bleeding. When the Ottoman Empire extended into Eastern Europe, it brought along a culinary influence that included “dolma,” a time-honored delicacy made from grape leaves stuffed with lamb, rice, onion and herbs that is simmered in olive oil.

Tasty as this may sound, do not harvest a handful of grape leaves for an upcoming soiree the next time you visit a local winery. (It’s bad form, and it makes the vineyard manager cranky). Purchase edible grape leaves, specifically grown for consumption, in the supermarket: they are not subject to the pesticide sprays used in wine production.

Grape leaves are full of minerals and vitamins such as copper, iron and calcium. Yet another gift from the vine.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I picked Norman Hardie’s 2009 Pinot Noir ($39) as a wonderful companion to this week’s recipe.

Although the 2009 growing season was challenging to some varietals, it proved to be an almost perfect season for Pinot Noir.

The fruit for this wine was grown in Niagara to Norman’s exacting standards, and was transported to his winery, on the day of harvest, to create this silken mouthful. The eye is an orange-tinted garnet with a light purple hue; the nose is red fruit with a hefty helping of barnyard. The flavors are a rich concentration of cherry, black raspberry, light fennel and vanilla — with a long, lingering finish. This is a well-crafted, unfiltered wine showing careful application of wood: a true delight. It is available for purchase at the winery, located at 1152 Greer Rd., just west of Rosehall.