At the extremes

Wine grapes, as we know, usually grow between the latitudes of 30 degrees north and 50 degrees south of the equator. But there are always exceptions to the rule.

The South Island of New Zealand boasts the most southerly vineyards in its Central Otago region, at 45 degrees.

In the northern hemisphere, Sweden has vineyards at 59 degrees. These vineyards produce less than 100,000 litres of wine yearly from cold hardy hybrids. The wine is not usually for sale or export. To put this amount into context, consider that France produces over six billion litres of wine annually. The Swedes, nevertheless, are producing some interesting ice wines. And a cottage industry combining wine, accommodation, and local cuisine has developed on the Baltic Sea island of Gotland. Throughout the centuries there have always been wines that captured attention and demand. In times past, such wines were only available to the fortunate few-royals, born to purple. Since the 1980s, however, such wines have become a commodity to be purchased and laid down to accrue value. Exceptional vintages of Bordeaux, Burgundy and the New World—to name but a few—have been relegated to cellars, and are traded in much the same manner as Florida juice orange futures on the New York exchange.

In upcoming columns I will try to do justice to some of these most prestigious wines. I will also be happy to answer any questions you might have. I promise to be forthright and let you know when I don’t have an answer. Until next week…

THIS WEEK’S PICK
At this time of year we begin to cast our minds to the familial festive celebration of Christmas. As such, I want you to consider a new addition to the County, released on November 25, just in time for your holiday season enjoyment.

In Portugal, it is customary to enjoy a glass of White Port as an aperitif, either chilled or at room temperature.

Richard Karlo was inspired to create such a fortified wine from a blend of Frontenac Blanc and Gewürztraminer grapes.

The eye shows an apricot hue. The nose is a warm mélange of tarte tatin, apricot preserve, and hazelnut—with a hint of pastry infused with mace. The palate is Meyer lemon marmalade with a finish of white grapefruit. This wine is nice and clean, and would be ideal as an apéro or as an accompaniment to a rich seasonal dessert.

Karlo Estates’ White Port is available for $29 at their winery, located just west of Wellington, at 561 Danforth Road.