Best nose forward

Decant essentially means to pour a liquid from one vessel to another. (Hence the noun “decanter.”) Wine has been decanted, in some form or fashion, throughout the ages. The Romans simply poured wine from a large amphora into a smaller carafe. Up to the 17th century, wine was drawn from a barrel to a stoneware jug for general consumption. As the wine culture improved, so did the rituals surrounding the consumption of this great gift. Passing port to the left without the decanter touching the table is an example. These new customs aside, however, something was missing.

The mass production of glassware, introduced with the Industrial Age, enabled wine producers and wine consumers to decant their wine into clear glass containers. Wine glasses of that age were not of the shape or design with which we are familiar, and did not allow a wine to open up in any sense. With the new decanters, wine could finally be opened prior to service, allowing the wonderful colour of the wine to be showcased.

As winemaking improved, so did the need for the decanting of wines and ports. Sediment could be left undisturbed in its original container by decanting wine into a clean glass container. At the same time, the wine was exposed to oxygen, allowing the wine to show all its characteristics. The depth and complexity of Bordeaux and vintage Barolo wines were finally truly appreciated.

While decanting is generally used to open up red wines, most wines can benefit from the process. A complex wine will benefit from slow decanting; a young new world wine will demonstrate its potential by vigorous decanting. White wines also benefit. You will be amazed by how much your overall enjoyment of a wine increases by the simple act of decanting.

Today you can find a wine glass specifically designed to enhance the characteristics of a grape varietal — delivering the optimum in taste and smell to the palate. But decanting remains a wonderful time-honored ritual in the enjoyment of wine.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I love the difference each vintage brings to a wine. This week, I very much enjoyed contrasting Sugarbush Vineyards 2009 and 2010 Vintage Chardonnays ($19), estate-grown and crafted in the County by winemaker Robert Peck.

You can really see the profile differences. Both showed different aromas and flavours, with wonderfully balanced acidity. The 2009 was packed with ripe citrus fruits, while the 2010 had brighter, more youthful notes of fresh pear. Clearly, the complexities of the wines are changing with the ongoing maturity of County vines.

I encourage you to visit our local vineyards and try their different vintages side-by-side. You will be amazed at the effects of climate, aging of vines, and time spent resting in bottles.