Bounty

County grape and fruit growers emerge from summer of drought with exceptional harvest

What doesn’t kill you, it would seem, makes you stronger. Perhaps tastier. The months-long drought and heat that gripped Prince Edward County this summer has caused hardship and suffering for many farmers. Fruit growers, including grape growers, however, are quietly breathing a massive sigh of relief.

Harvest is in full swing across the County and reports from the fields and vineyards are coming in. They are telling a story of perhaps one of the best crops in a generation. The fruit, overall, is tending to be smaller—but packed with flavour. Further, the vines and trees are producing greater volumes.

“This is one of those rare years where we are getting both quality and quantity,” said Dan Sullivan, winemaker and principal at Rosehall Run.

It is much needed. A killer frost in May 2015 spelled a terrible harvest last fall. Winegrowers were compelled to nurse vines all that summer, knowing that they would bear little usable fruit, just to make it to another growing season. Then drought struck this summer. It pushed some vines—particularly young vines—to the edge. Some vineyards were compelled to water their crop or risking losing the plants altogether.

Older vines and fruit trees went dormant. When rain finally came in August, a surprising thing happened. Many of these trees and vines came on stronger than ever before.

“The vines were ready to give us a bit more this year—and they did,” said Sullivan. “Though the fruit size is small, the crop load itself is big. Thankfully, because it will help make up for tough year last year.”

Grant Howes at County Cider Company tells a surprisingly similar story about his apple trees.

“I am really looking forward to this year’s harvest,” said Howes. “The fruit is smaller, but more abundant. And it is sweeter and more flavourful. I think it is going to be the best year for our ciders yet.”

The fear many grapegrowers carried with them through August was that when the rains came, the sudden rush of moisture might engorge the fruit and split the skins. Happily, that didn’t happen.

Warmer temperatures in October has allowed growers to let the grapes remain on the vine—the skins becoming richer in flavour and nuance.

Lou Della Civita manages vineyard operations at Casa Dea Winery on Greer Road, next door to Rosehall Run. He says the fruit excelled in the dry conditions. He explains his mother’s rule of growing tomatoes when he was a child.

She would water the plants until the stems were strong and the flowers bloomed,” said Della Civita. “Then she wouldn’t water them again. Sometimes this meant her tomatoes were smaller—but they were always full of flavour. More water will make the fruit larger, but often at the cost of flavour.”

Della Civita expects the chardonnay to be outstanding. He notes the cabernet franc is still hanging on the vine. He will wait as long as he can before picking these grapes.

“They are still adding flavour every day,” said Della Civita.

Sullivan agrees. He says the County received just the right balance of temperature and moisture in September.

“It has allowed us to push that extra hang time,” said Sullivan, “and has really concentrated the skins. The skin thickness and seed colour is right there.”

He expects some varietals will be extraordinarily good.

“I think the chardonnay will be a superstar this year,” said Sullivan. “The pinot is really exciting as well. I wish I had some cab franc. I think they can look forward to some of their best vintages ever. Some super flavours and some elegance.”

Sherry Karlo at Karlo Estates Winery on Danforth echoes the reports of other growers in Hillier.

The fruit is smaller but the overall volume is up. She expects to produce drier wine overall—due to lower brix levels.

“The fruit is gorgeous, just smaller,” said Karlo. “Our frontenac vines are heavily laden with fruit. And for the first time we had to drop some of our malbec grapes so it would not overtax the vines.”

She adds that the pinot is very clean. She explained low moisture levels in the growing months contributed to much less disease pressure. Howes, too, noted that a dry summer allowed County Cider to spray trees far less frequently than in past seasons.

Karlo is particularly excited about the first crop of carménère— the sixth of the Bordeaux regions wine—grown in the Hillier vineyard.

“People thought Richard was crazy when he planted it— but it seems to be doing better than some of the other traditional vinefiera that we have. The carménère will be used to make our Holy Grail wine—that is all six of the Bordeaux varietals in one bottle. It was our dream to make the Sextus—I am very excited to taste that.”

Sullivan is quietly predicting 2016 to be a great vintage for Prince Edward County wine and cider makers.