Bread and circus

We have taken comfort, in Ontario, that we enjoy the strongest alcohol control system in Canada. But is this just a catch phrase for monopoly and price-setting? Are beer, cider and wine in grocery stores being made available for our benefit, or is this market being opened for the potential tax windfall?

As of October 28, sixty-seven Ontario grocery stores became eligible to sell wine. An additional 57 stores have already been retailing both beer and cider. And the provincial government aims to eventually have 450 grocery stores with beer and cider available for purchase (with 300 of those stores also selling wine). These outlets will be in addition to the existing 164 Wine Rack and the 104 Wine Store kiosks that currently retail in stores. (These stores sell wine that is made in Canada, but not necessarily with Canadian grapes. The delightful phrase “cellared in Canada” speaks volumes.)

Wal-Mart in Belleville drew the short straw, and was awarded the licence to sell wine in our area. I cannot at the moment comment on the selection of wine that is available (or the local content for that matter), but I will check it out. I imagine, however, that 10 or 20 shelf spaces will be reserved for small County producers, even though they routinely sell out their production without government support.

On a slightly different topic: what is with the huge walk-in beer coolers that are becoming part of the LCBO stores? The Belleville store is redesigning its space to accommodate a large walk-in beer cooler in what used to be the vintage section. Has the province finally come to its senses and decided to rein in the Beer Store? Or is it simply a way to increase needed revenues?

It is all about bread and circuses.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
I am always excited by the wines of Prince Edward County. But you can be surprised and amazed when you are introduced to a wine that, by design, was a long time in the making. It really takes a lot of confidence to sit on a wine, revisiting it constantly, and not releasing the wine until you are perfectly content with its quality. But such is the case with the 2008 Grange Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay that I tasted last week.

This beauty is a delight to the eye, with nose that is a riot of roasted filberts, a palate that enjoys layers of baked Alaska and Meyer lemon, with a finish of crème brûlée, and an acidity that is prevalent and cleansing. There are only 120 cases of this wine available, and they will be much sought after.

Whether you can set it down or consume it now, this wine is a treasure. It would be a perfect wine for the upcoming Christmas season—either to enjoy with the family, or to present as a thoughtful gift. At $35, this wine is available at their winery located on Closson Road.