Bright prospects

I’ve long been intrigued by those “wine stores” usually found at the supermarket exit. How are they able to sell wine outside the premises of an LCBO? Very little detail was available on the subject until I was guided to an in-depth article written by Toronto Star reporter Martin Regg Cohn in March of 2015. If you object to foreign corporations taking advantage of Ontarians, you must read this article. But first, we need to understand how these stores evolved from their winery roots.

It began when Thomas Bright and Francis A. Shirriff founded the Niagara Falls Wine Company in 1874. The limited wine production of this time was produced from native Labrusca grapes that were somewhat lacking in comparison to European wines. In 1911, Bright bought out Shirriff—confident that the terroir and climate would support better wines. Once they began to graft European vines onto domestic rootstock (that were winter-hardy and pest-resistant), they were proven right, and history was made. Brights continued to expand, survived prohibition and, along with Jordan, went on to produce better wines in Ontario.

By the mid-1960s there were many new players in the Niagara region, including Andre’s and Chateau-Gai. Even Labatt invested in 1964 and was quite successful with domestic and California wine offerings. In 1989, Allan Jackson and Don Triggs—who acquired Inniskillin winery in 1975 (first winery license in Ontario since 1929)— bought Labatt’s wine interest when they decided to focus on their core interest in beer. In 1992, Cartier wines merged with Inniskillin, and then went on to absorb Bright’s interests in 1993, in order to form Vincor. (The Jackson-Triggs brand was launched in that year as well). Since then, Vincor has gone from strength to strength—incorporating iconic brands into their portfolio that made them a very attractive possibility for purchase or merger by a non-Canadian company.

More next week.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Every year, I feel the need to make a pilgrimage to the wineries in the south of the County. The special soil type and climate produce wines that make the trip really worthwhile. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir offerings from this region will really appeal to the oenophile.

I recently had the sublime pleasure to taste the free run of a Pinot Noir aging in new French oak. As I closed my eyes I thought myself in Burgundy. Against all odds, Long Dog has laboured long to produce such sublime wines. James Lahti imprints his passion on each and every bottle. Long Dog is one of an inspired few who create the finest cold climate wine in this hemisphere, which has fostered a devout following that makes a pilgrimage at least once a year to taste and purchase their wine.