Building Brix

Created perhaps by happenstance, appassiemento is a style of wine that became the norm for the taste of the early wine consumers, especially the Romans.

In this method, the natural brix in a grape is condensed and magnified by partially drying the grapes using a number of methods. They can be kiln dried in a very few days—or air dried on racks, taking up to six weeks of gentle drying to achieve the desired result. The grapes lose about forty per cent of their liquid in the process, with the remainder packed with concentrated sugars and tannins. As a result, the yield is drastically reduced and— adding to the loss—the wine must be aged in barrels for no less than two years before bottling and subsequent release. It is truly an expensive process.

If this style is difficult to produce in the not-so-challenging growing conditions of the Old World, consider the obstacles that wine growers face in Ontario—not so much in Niagara, but in Prince Edward County, where winegrowers must bury their vines to protect them from Old Man Winter. Perhaps this is a lesson to be learned by the Niagara growers, given the decimation of their vines over the past two winters.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
In the County, Casa-Dea Estates Winery recently released their 2012 Adamo, made in the appassiemento style from estategrown cabernet franc grapes. Take heed: there are only 50 cases available, perhaps fewer now.

Casa-Dea also made a white appassiemento wine. In Italy, it is traditionally made with Garganega grape in the production of Soave wine. Casa-Dea was determined, however, to make Eva from estate chardonnay. As with most reductions, the flavours are more pronounced, and since the brix is increased, the alcohol percentage is higher.

The Adamo and the Eva wines are still true to their varietal origins, however. The Eva is especially so, with stewed apples in the forefront, rolling layers of marmalade, tarte au poire, almond baklava and fresh marzipan added to a hidden viscosity. With a declared potency of 14.9 per cent alcohol, this is a wine for folks wearing big boy pants. Priced at $44.95, this is less than one might pay for an Amarone or any other appassiemento wine.

Casa-Dea Winery is located on Greer Rd.