Bull’s Blood

Some wines, like Hungarian “Bull’s Blood,” have a wonderful story behind their name and origin. Bull’s Blood is a robust red wine, blended from up to 13 different varieties, that is commonly found on wine shop and supermarket shelves in the British Isles. The common availability of this wine, however, does not diminish its quality. It only reflects a widespread misunderstanding of the respect that this wine should be accorded.

The wine originated in the northern region of Hungary, from vines planted by Serbs prior to their displacement by the Turks in the 14th century. During the invasion of Suleiman the “Magnificent” (depending on your point of view), they placed the castle of Eger under siege. To maintain morale, the garrison was fed the best food available, and allowed to imbibe generous amounts of the local wine. The castle withstood the siege, and — the story goes —Turkish troops believed the wine consumed by the garrison was fortified with bull’s blood. The name stuck.

As with the rest of Europe, phylloxera devastated the vineyards in the 1800s. Replanting combined traditional varieties and imported vines: “Blaufrankisch,” merlot, cabernet franc and syrah were among the new vines. Instead of “mixed plantings” where all the different varietals were harvested and pressed together, Hungarians began to process the grapes separately and blend later. After World War II, the communist government planted a variety called “Zwiegelt” to include in this blending in order to produce a lighter wine. (Zwiegelt is grown in the County.)

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Last week, I had occasion to visit the Del- Gatto Estates Winery, and sample their selection of wines produced from hybrid varietals. The depth of flavor and complexity of these hybrids did not surprise me. Indeed, they make a wonderful counterpoint to the usual range of great County wines. This family- owned-and-operated winery is impressive in adept use and development of uncommon varietals, producing uniquely flavour-packed wines. Their wines are affordably priced, but are only available at the winery.

Winemaker Pat Del-Gatto has created “Two Shades of Red” ($16): with its rich, deep flavors, it will knock your socks off.