Cold truth

On the morning of May 23, between the hours of six and seven in the morning, frost hit southern ontario—just one day before the customarily accepted severe frost end date of May 24. It was a flash freeze that enveloped vineyard buds and leaves. Vineyard workers employed windmills to stir the air, burned hay bales to create smoke, and fed burn barrels throughout the night in order to create pockets of heat against the frigid air assault. Depending on location, damage to the buds was substantial, despite these endeavours. What was thriving on the previous day, showing promise for a bountiful year, was a desolate wasteland of shrivelled, blackened leaves by the next morning.

This devastating loss has yet to be fully assessed. Damage varies from vineyard to vineyard. Primary buds have suffered terribly, so the “back-up system” of secondary buds will now make or break this year’s harvest. The problem is, these secondary buds are not so prolific, and their yield is smaller. And there might not be enough hot days to ripen this year’s crop—even if there is a perfect fall and an Indian summer.

Vineyard owners are not alone—the entire farming community has been affected. Even magnolia and ash trees were damaged, as were domestic gardens. Oats, corn, wheat, tender vegetables and even such mundane veggies as cauliflower will have to be replanted. I suspect the asparagus farm at Ridge Road has been compromised, as were the field tomatoes. Depending on the crop, the cost per acre of re-seeding is substantial, and means a later harvest date that depends on good weather holding later in the season.

Other crops cannot be replanted. I have not reached Grant from the Cider Company to inquire if his orchards were damaged. I understand that strawberry plants survived, again depending on location, but I have not determined the status of other berry crops.

Regardless of crop or location, all growers suffered from this chill: the coldest night of that date since 1961.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
Kimberly and I attended the open house at Sugarbush Winery last week, and were blown away by the latest additions to their portfolio. We snagged one of only 15 cases of viognier, as well as tasting through their range of small batch production wines. I loved the earthy, spicy tones of their gamay.

I am thrilled to introduce their rosé, cutely (and aptly) named Almost Red, to the wineby- the glass program at East & Main. This blend of Gamay and Chardonnay grapes is finished just off-dry. The price of this backyard barbecue sipper is $17, and is available at their tasting room on Wilson Road.