Crimean coast

As far back as 400 B.C., there is evidence of extensive wine cultivation in Ukraine, around the south coast of Crimea. Initially, there was trade with the civilizations surrounding the Black Sea and later on with the Greek and Roman Empires. Around 1780, Crimea became part of the Russian Empire making it a significant supplier of wine to the Russian Court. Wine cultivation in the northern part of the country (around Kiev and Chernihiv), however, only started in the 11th century by monks.

In the mid 1820s, Crimea developed a sparkling wine program that exists to this day. The wines of the Crimea were noted for their quality and were served to the Czars and later on to the Politburo of the U.S.S.R. Crimean wines were served at the Yalta Conference in February 1945 and commanded the patronage of the state up to the devolution of the U.S.S.R.

An interesting note, the Crimean peninsula is the area described in the book The Clan Of The Cave Bear, which tells the story of the initial meeting of Homo sapiens and Neanderthals, and is well worth the read.

The south coast of the Crimea is an ideal location for viniculture combining sunshine, mild winters, goldilocks rainfall and mineralladen soil. The main white varietals grown in this region are Chardonnay, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Traminer; the reds are Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Isabella (a.k.a. Black Cape, Albany Surprise and many others). It has been suggested that the Phylloxera scourge was introduced to Europe by Isabella rootstocks brought back from the New World.

Just prior to the year 2000, there was a forced uprooting of more than 800 square kilometers of vineyards, in the attempt to limit the alcohol consumption of the citizens. Since then, the industry has been rejuvenated in the free enterprise market and now exports its wines mainly to Russia, with a growing demand in the U.K. and Western Europe.

THIS WEEK’S PICK
To tie the ribbon on this week’s recipe, try this handcrafted treat from Sugarbush Vineyards. Robert and Sally Peck have just released their 2010 Riesling/Gewurztraminer ($18). In keeping with the blend, this wine has a slightly off-dry finish with a gold-plated straw hue. Aromas of candied fruit and violets, with a round mouthful of fresh Bartlett pears, Turkish apricots and white peach make it a great and versatile crowd pleaser.

All fruits are sourced and harvested at their vineyards located at 1286 Wilson Road in Hillier.