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David and Goliath wine
Large scale wineries, at a scale large enough to feed the LCBO stores, do have some benefits. They are often connected to universities and training programs, providing research and funding to winemaking programs. In the last 20 to 40 years, understanding of wine at a microbiological level has increased more than in any other time in history. We truly are living in the golden age of wine. Overall, the wines we consume today are of much higher quality than they were 50 or more years ago.
However, this also has a downside. It means that mass produced wines are made in a laboratory. Tinkered with, adjusted, added to and subtracted from, fed to focus groups, brought to marketing boards until finally a desirable formula is reached. Such wines are blended and bottled, branded and sold to unsuspecting consumers in the $15 to $30 range.
These are the opposite of what is happening in our own back yard. The wineries in PEC can’t compete with cheap labour, fertile soils, and R&D through big brands. But they can compete in quality.
For anyone lucky to remember Stuart McLean and The Vinyl Cafe stories, you’ll recall that the motto of Dave’s record shop was “we may not be big, but we’re small.” An apt reflection on the power of being small.
Malcolm Gladwell wrote a book called David and Goliath with the premise being that being the position of underdog confers greater advantages than the alternative. That with humility and self-confidence anyone can overcome large and seemingly dominating threats.
It is understandable that big brands dominate the shelves of the LCBO, as there are close to 700 stores to feed. But what is hard to fathom is that the average drinker is consuming something akin to McDonald wines when they could be drinking higher quality wines and skirting the monopoly structure of the LCBO.
It is now easier than ever to buy direct from small wineries across the country. Want to see how chardonnay tastes when grown in the desert sun of Osoyoos, BC? Just a few clicks and a case could be yours.
Over on the East coast in Nova Scotia, there is uniquely Canadian wine called Tidal Bay. Tidal Bay is the first wine appellation in Nova Scotia and is known for a fresh, crisp, and “dryish” white wine style with a bright, aromatic component that reflects the Nova Scotia terroir. The best part is they are 9.5 to 11 per cent alcohol! And they can be shipped right to your house.
There are countless boutique wineries in Canada, not available through the LCBO that are worthy of your attention and can be shipped directly to you.
As the patio season swings into high gear, there has never been a better chance to share something new and different with friends and family.
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